Good leads for a new trad leader at or near Smith

Ill be heading to Smith Rocks in a couple weeks. I have done a few trad leads and I am looking to get some more experience. I know Smith is more known for its sport climbing, I am hoping to get a few trad lines while I am over there.

Does any know and good leads for a new trad leader near or in Smith Rocks?

Thanks Justin

The first pitch of Lions Jaw is a good line for a new trad leader. You can stitch it up and the stances for placing gear are not strenuous so you can take your time.

mountainproject.com/v/lions…

Would help to know what you have climbed? What gear you have? Partners experience? Etc.

Spiderman, Moscow, Super Slab

Muscrat wrote:Would help to know what you have climbed? What gear you have? Partners experience? Etc.

Currently I have been doing a lot 5.8 sport leads. I have fallowed lots multi pitch and trad up to 5.10 (Red Rock, Castle Crags). Last time at smith I followed Spider Man. I have done 2 trad leads which were 5.7 and 5.8. Ill be with my buddy who is an experienced trad climber so ill have access to a full rack. I hope that helps

superflyjt24 wrote:Spiderman, Moscow, Super Slab

Yes. To start, i would go to the Shakespeare wall (lower gorge, east side) and run up everything there in a day. The gorge is more about cracks. You should have the book on Smith. When you are comfy at Shake, cross the creek and do wildfire wall. Gruff is a good 10 to start on.
I have spent many a trip at Smith where all i did was go to the gorge, sacrilege i know, but some good stuff!
Trout Creek?

grab the book at Redpoint.

also look into Trout Creek if youre into trad

Hey there, heading up to Smith Rock now (Friday the 21st), looking for someone to climb sport or trad with on Sat or Sun. I won't have access to the internet or Mountain Project from here but give me a call if you're interested (530) 945-6577 Marcus :)

The classic easy gear routes in the welded tuff have been noted above. Superslab (keep an eye on the traverse), Moscow (bring some wide gear for belays), and Cinnamon Slab. Lycophodophada and Lions Jaw are real good as well. Unfortunately, those may all be fairly warm due to the season.

Learning to step down to a rest is always preferable to hanging on gear and should be practiced.

Have fun!!

Sky Chimney, it feels a little burly for 5.7 but it is a nice day out. Helps to be familiar with the rap descent for wherever I may roam.

Personally I don't think the tuff is that great for new leaders. The gear placements can be trickier than granite splitters and the cracks seem to open up in the back. Takes passive gear well though. I haven't been to the lower gorge yet (sacrilege i know!) but it looks more straight forward than the tuff.

I have found the lower gorge to be quite stout for taking people new to trad climbing. The climbing down there is really good though. If your friend is a stronger leader than you I would go for it. Ophelia at Shakespeare wall is a nice easy climb as is Cody's Corner at hand job wall, though that may be a bit harder to protect for a new trad leader. You can get shade most of the day in the lower gorge.

To get across the river you cross just before Cruel Sister.

I would consider super slab extremely run out for a new leader, though it is easy I found the holds to be a bit dirty.

I will be at smith the last weekend of august and the first weekend of September. If that overlaps with your plans shoot me a message and I'd be happy to meet up at the bivy or even head down to the lower gorge together.