Mountain Project Logo

Overnight pack you're willing to wear while leading?

Original Post
Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

Looking for suggestions on size/choice of pack(s) for an upcoming trip. If you're doing a summer alpine overnight/climb, what is your choice of pack/packs that is big enough to carry everything for at least one, possibly two nights in a remote location, but small enough to lead with (or do you go with 2?).

My original plan was to hike up with my Osprey Atmos 65 and bring along my BD Speed 22 to summit with, but I'm not convinced the 22 will fit everything I want, including a fairly hefty DSLR, and I'd rather not climb with a 65l pack on, it does compress down pretty well, but I could see it being a potential nuisance on a long day.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

I had to read your subject line post twice to understand what you were asking. Maybe change it to "overnight pack that I can climb lead with"

I like my Mountain Hardware Scrambler 30 for packing more gear, but you could probably get away with something smaller.

Eddie Taylor · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 91

I like my patagonia ascencionist 35, its really lite, expandable, and is easy to lead with. I think it depends on how much stuff you want to bring but I can get 2/3 nights with it. I think its on sale right now too, for a pretty good price.

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Cilogear

Best packs for stuffing, and then fully stripping down for the climb.

Holds up well to abuse. Small company. Made in USA.
You will pay a bit more though...

Also to note: the osprey, The bd mission, and and speed model..

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

Thanks, still working on my first coffee - do you find your 30 big enough for an overnight? I bought a very lightweight tent that I can lash to the outside, pad, down sleeping bag, first aid kit, blah blah blah the space for a rack and food and clothes starts to dwindle quickly.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
DEF wrote: pad, down sleeping bag, first aid kit, blah blah blah the space for a rack and food and clothes starts to dwindle quickly.
Remember, this is an overnight, and not an expedition. Comfort is not the same as necessity.

Try to break things up between you and a partner, if going with one. You don't need a tent, sleeping bag, pad, but they are nice. You have to weigh your needs and essentials, or get a bigger pack.

Edit to add:
I can fit a small rack, two/three meals with stove and small pot, first aid/emergency blanket, tarp, extra socks, knife, map/compass, pullover jacket, as well as, a few other paraphernalia. Depending on the weather and environment will depend on what else may be packed.
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

I've got a Osprey Variant 35, very happy with it, light, plenty of helmet clearance too, I also found a replacement webbing belt if I want to remove the padded one.
But this is the previous version of the pack.
The mutants are nice too.
I also use a deadbird cierzo 18 which fits in your hand when empty. But since it's so light material I'll be very carefull climbing with it.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
DEF wrote: My original plan was to hike up with my Osprey Atmos 65 and bring along my BD Speed 22 to summit with,
This would work well if you are wanting to bring along more comfort gear.
aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300
DEF wrote:Thanks, still working on my first coffee - do you find your 30 big enough for an overnight? I bought a very lightweight tent that I can lash to the outside, pad, down sleeping bag, first aid kit, blah blah blah the space for a rack and food and clothes starts to dwindle quickly.
Why are you leading with all that crap anyway? That's what the second is for. Make the second carry the big pack, and the leader carry a small one. Switch at the anchor if swapping belays.

Unless you're just scrambling on 5.easy, then I've led with a 50L pack before. But it's very uncomfortable, and the padded beefy hip belt, while great for carrying loads, got in the way of my harness and gear loops. It may be better to use a large pack for packing stuff in, and a small pack for climbing.

When I was searching for a pack that I can lead with, I wanted something around 30L that can be compressed down, with minimalistic hip belt so it doesn't get in the way of my gear loops. Like Big Feet, I found the the Mountain Hardwear Scrambler 30 to be perfect. The two gear loops on the pack are quite useful too to keep things organized. I got the previous year model for a pretty good deal, the current year model is even waterproof.
Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60
aikibujin wrote: Why are you leading with all that crap anyway?
I just meant that I have to get it up to the midway camp. Debating if I would have room in a 35l for everything to have at the campsite for 2 days, on the actual climb would just have water, snacks, an emergency layer/jacket and the other 'what if we get stuck up here all night' essentials. The reason the 22l may not work is the bulky camera gear I insist on bringing with me.. FWIW most of the climb (cmc route on moran) is fourth and low fifth class. I think what I'll do is just do a trial run of trying to fit everything in my 35l pack that I can tolerate climbing in and see if it fits, if so just go with that single pack.
BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
DEF wrote: My original plan was to hike up with my Osprey Atmos 65 and bring along my BD Speed 22 to summit with,
Go with this plan then. The camera may be the biggest problem. Down size to something that may be able to capture the experience instead of something you would make a documentary with.

Maybe make this trip a trial run to see what can be discarded or brought for the next trip. The more of these you do the more experience you will gain in knowing what to pack.

Your summit pack should only have what you need to make it back to "base camp", whatever that may be: Headlamp, water, some food, shell, beta map, first aid, lighter/matches, small camera/phone, emergency blanket would be about all I would be taking. Water would be the most weight, but this eases off throughout the climb/day.
Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375

I've used the CCW Chernobyl many times for the situation you've inquired about.
coldcoldworldpacks.com/cher…

As many above have stated, go with something compressible. This pack is 50L, but has a removable brain and can really crank down. You have to pack it smart (think whiskey, not beers), but it works great. I'm sure any similar volume pack of its nature would work equally as well.

That all being said, you definitely feel the pack on your back. If you want to feel light & free while climbing, I'd say it's worth bringing a light pack such as an a bullet pack or super packable summit pack (10-20L).

jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

Horses for courses. There's no one pack that meets all needs. The systems I like:

Pack that can carry bulky and heavy loads on the way in to a camp, then compress down to ride reasonably when you're climbing carrying only day essentials (and returning to camp on your way out): Cilogear (30:30, 40, or 45), Patagonia Ascenionist 45, Cilogear Chernobyl, Osprey Variant, BD Speed 40 or 50, etc. These packs that are designed to have framesheets, lids, and hipbelts easily removed and then compress down to ride almost as good as a tiny pack itself. They don't ride as comfortably as a big backpacking pack with big loads, but you're saving weight and volume by having one pack do double duty.

Pack for carry over of bivy gear on a technical climb where there's lots of simulclimbing / movement and relatively few belayed pitches: Cilogear 30, Ascenionist 35, Speed 30 or 40, etc. No DSLR, no tent (tarp perhaps), no bullshit.

Pack system for carry over of bivy gear on technical climb where it's mostly pitched out and there's little simulclimbing: one team member carries a bigger pack with bulkier lighter stuff on the approach, other team member carries a small pack (like your Speed 22, or a 30L pack) with dense items to spread load between the partners (e.g. the rack, rope flaked over the top). On technical climbing, leader goes with tiny pack with essentials, follower brings big pack with all the crap. Maybe you haul the big pack a pitch or two if terrain demands. Leader pack - Speed 22, Ascenionist 25, BD Speed 30, etc. Follower - whatevs.

My personal system is to have a Cilogear 30L (daypack, bare bones overnight), Cilogear 40L (bulkier overnight or climb from a high camp), and a big backpacking pack. That covers the bases OK.

Matt Maloney · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

Deuter Guide 35 or 45. The hipbelt padding is removable and you can tuck the brain into the pack while climbing.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

I like the newer BD Speed packs as a good balance between cost, weight and durability. The lids are removable. I have used an older generation 30L for multi-day alpine. It's light, but tore (as did my Cilogear) with only soft stuff inside.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375
fossana wrote:I like the newer BD Speed packs as a good balance between cost, weight and durability. The lids are removable. I have used an older generation 30L for multi-day alpine. It's light, but tore (as did my Cilogear) with only soft stuff inside.
Agreed with Foss' here. The speed series is GREAT on their own. I've fit a rope, rack and the kitchen sink in the Speed 22 for an all-day alpine climb....but never overnight gear.

Because of the reinforced backing they are very comfy, but pack down poorly. Because of their poor packability, I either use just my Speed 22, or go for a smaller "leader's pack".
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Why bring a pack on the climb? If you can't hang it comfortably off your harness you don't need it on a climb (at least I tell myself). Packs on route just get in the way.

If I do need a pack then I've been happy with the 18 liter REI flash, if it's quite hot and I have to bring a lot of water I prefer to use it (let's face it 3 liters off your harness would be ridiculous).

On carry overs I've use a BD speed 40, the hip belt padding comes off and framesheet comes out for the actual climb. After the full north ridge of Stuart (30 pitches supposedly if you don't simul) I had red marks across the front/top of my shoulders though, it did hinder mobility a bit. If you do much squeezing you will tear the fabric on granite eventually, that's the cost of the light packs.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Nick Drake wrote:Why bring a pack on the climb? If you can't hang it comfortably off your harness you don't need it on a climb (at least I tell myself). Packs on route just get in the way. If I do need a pack then I've been happy with the 18 liter REI flash, if it's quite hot and I have to bring a lot of water I prefer to use it (let's face it 3 liters off your harness would be ridiculous). On carry overs I've use a BD speed 40, the hip belt padding comes off and framesheet comes out for the actual climb. After the full north ridge of Stuart (30 pitches supposedly if you don't simul) I had red marks across the front/top of my shoulders though, it did hinder mobility a bit. If you do much squeezing you will tear the fabric on granite eventually, that's the cost of the light packs.
I have a 32 L pack that I have used on multi 1500ft climb and it didn't cause any problems for me beside a small chimney. To be honest the pack weighs next to nothing compared to your rack of gear and you never know when you will have an unexpected night on the side of the cliff... so I like to bring water, food, and emergency gear.

There is alot of reasons to take a pack up. Normally I prefer my second to carry the pack but I have lead entire walls with our extra rope in the pack for rappelling. Food, water, shoes to down hike if you can't rappel, emergency gear encase of an accident, etc.
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56
Nick Drake wrote:On carry overs I've use a BD speed 40, the hip belt padding comes off and framesheet comes out for the actual climb. After the full north ridge of Stuart (30 pitches supposedly if you don't simul) I had red marks across the front/top of my shoulders though, it did hinder mobility a bit. If you do much squeezing you will tear the fabric on granite eventually, that's the cost of the light packs.
Maybe this is obvious, but where do you stash the framesheet and pad on a carry over? Did you have a basecamp somewhere?
Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Ashort wrote: Maybe this is obvious, but where do you stash the framesheet and pad on a carry over? Did you have a basecamp somewhere?
No just throw them in the pack, lots of room once the rack or rope come out. With the frame sheet out of it's sleeve and not securely held in by the two velcro straps at the top the pack is more flexible.
I know a lot of people prefer to have no frame sheet, but I find the carry terrible no matter how I try to distribute the weight w/o a sheet (yeah I've seen the cilo videos).
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
DEF wrote:Looking for suggestions on size/choice of pack(s) for an upcoming trip. If you're doing a summer alpine overnight/climb, what is your choice of pack/packs that is big enough to carry everything for at least one, possibly two nights in a remote location, but small enough to lead with (or do you go with 2?). My original plan was to hike up with my Osprey Atmos 65 and bring along my BD Speed 22 to summit with, but I'm not convinced the 22 will fit everything I want, including a fairly hefty DSLR, and I'd rather not climb with a 65l pack on, it does compress down pretty well, but I could see it being a potential nuisance on a long day.
I've used a Deuter 65L pack and a 16L pack. I put a small first aid kit, 48 oz of liquid, food a SOL Bivy, mid layer and my rain jacket.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Overnight pack you're willing to wear while lea…"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.