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Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Tumwater Canyon
> Castle Rock
> Upper Castle
Orange Peel
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Upper Castle
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Angel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angel Dreads T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Blocks of Doom T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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By the Sea T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canary T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cat Burglar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Century T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack of Doom T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Damnation Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dan's Dreadful Direct (aka DDD) T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Das Musak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Devil's Fright T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Directissima T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Equinox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hangdog T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lucky Charms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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MF Direct T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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MF Overhang T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Midway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Midway Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Such Thing as a Free Lunge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Nose, of Jello Tower, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Old Gray Mare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Orange Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rainbow Connection T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Rainshadow Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Saber T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Saber Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Saints T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short N' Sassy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slim Pickins T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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South Face, Jello Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter Solstice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Rob Knudsen, Dick "Duck" Novikoff, Greg Olsen, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,207 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Feb 20, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
There are several variations I have done off the Saber ledge. This is described as a horizontal traverse after going up the Saber Chimney to join Canary after the bolted section. The book does not describe where or how far up Saber the horizontal is, maybe about 30' I have traversed a steep wall and come out on the blocky arete right of Canary.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.
Another good variation is to go straight up the face between Canary and Saber from the Saber ledge. It is still 5.9, but has some tricky steep face climbing and watch out for fragile flakes, instead of joining Canary, keep going up blocky arete, veering more right and come to a bolted anchor on the face left of Saber inside corner.
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