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Camalot sling width vs carabiner width.

Original Post
Benjixxx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

With the camalot sling being rather bulky at 15mm wide is it a problem to use small carabiners like the neutrino and the camp nano that may cause some bunching of the sling inside the carabiner basket?

Thanks
-Ben

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

You aren't going to die.

Edit to not sound like a dick: a large portion of people (myself included) rack C4's on neutrinos and I have never heard of that being ill advised. I would imagine any reduction to be negligible.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

I believe Matt. But I also see that if a webbing or sling is bunched, then is it possible that a load wouldn't distribute evenly through the strands, adding more force in some places and less than others? This may be a minute detail, but isn't climbing safely about redundancy?

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

^^^. No. It's not all about redundancy. Single belayer, single belay loop, single belay biner, single belay device, single rope. Hello?

The wide sling is to mitigate cutting as a result of the thumb loop cable deformation. Your small biners won't deform in any measurable way to cut the cam's sling.

It is no issue whatsoever.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
JoeGaribay wrote:I believe Matt. But I also see that if a webbing or sling is bunched, then is it possible that a load wouldn't distribute evenly through the strands, adding more force in some places and less than others?
Yes, that is correct. Bunching the sling together in a micro carabiner will weaken it compared to letting the load distribute evenly such as on the wide portion of an HMS carabiner. However, the sling, even in a small carabiner, is still going to be stronger than the cam itself, thus nullifying the issue. I would be more concerned with the fact that the bunched sling is more likely to transfer a greater amount of force along the gate of the carabiner when compared to a dyneema sling, which in turn would reduce the open gate strength of the carabiner. Even so, it certainly doesent keep me awake at night or stop me from going for it at the crux. It's a trade-off in the end. Smaller carabiners tend to be weaker. If you want maximum strength, go with a full-sized biner designed for use with a nylon sling.
Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 86

The more you know....

Thanks guys. I suck it all in

Benjixxx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks guys

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Another thing to consider, and probably more important, is the fact that when you put a wide sling in a small carabiner, the carabiner tends to rotate sometimes so that the sling is on the top portion of the carabiner, which is wider, and not on the bottom. That means when you go to grab the piece, the biner is upside down. Call it following the path of least resistance--the sling wants to go where it wont be compressed as much. This may or may not be an issue for you. I only use my Nanos on my Metolius cams, and they have Dyneema slings so it's not a problem. It might be worth trying a few Nanos on your Camalots before going all in to see if this issue comes up. I have seen this issue come up with the Metolius FS micros and Camalot slings because those things are so tiny. Less sure about the Nanos though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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