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Tahoe Vicinity: Best single cragging + decent car/4x4 camping

Original Post
rbob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Looking for a place to go this weekend to climb some single pitch splitters (and/or slabs). I have never climbed in Tahoe before and am looking for the dick wrenching mega classics that have <2 mile approaches and no-hassle, dirtbag car/4x4 camping.

I have one day to climb. I imagine a lot of crags fall into this category, so post up your favorites in the 5.8-5.10 range. Dog friendly a plus.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Get yourself a guidebook so you have the best info for approaches, descents, route beta, etc. For the South Lake Tahoe area, here's the Supertopo book:

supertopo.com/packs/southla…

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20

Woodfords would probably be up your alley.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18

Bowman lake/valley-lots of info on mp. Dirt road access away from it all. Don't need 4wd to get there but lots of it around the area
Mostly sport, no splitters.

Go to woodfords, donner or eagle lake buttress/cliff for classic splitters. Better camping near wood fords or up in hope valley

rbob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Great - re: Woodfords, are there good pullouts/areas nearby to camp? Or is the $ campground the way to go (and will there be space late on Friday)?

Paul Zander · · Bern, CH · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 739

phantom spires is pretty stellar in the 5.8-5.10 range and has really nice free camping with super short approach

Tyson Waldron · · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 910

Camping at the parking for one of these days buttress is pretty stellar, but there are spots everywhere in the canyon. This is where some of the best shaded cragging in the canyon is as well. One of these days buttress in the morning, then the tiers or high energy in the afternoon.
Do not skip one of these days, 35m overhung 5.10 splitter!

Joe Crawford · · Truckee, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 105

Best crack in tahoe is hands down Eagle Lake Cliff. No primitive camping there, but if you're gonna climb 5.10 crack it's worth the drive from wherever you decide to camp.

Seems like the camping at Phantom Spires is pretty primo, but hella hot this time of year. Also offers access to the Wrights Lake Cliff and a short drive to both the leap (which has some classic single and first pitches) and sugarloaf.

rbob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks folks - turned out that donner delivered exactly what the doctor ordered, but I look forward to exploring all the great suggestions above.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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