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Why is Trad so much more difficult in grade than sport?

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Theres a reason why folks follow up new leaders on a climb ... To check their placements

The person said 3/4 were "bomber" ... Not "good" or 1/4 were "bad"

Id say thats not bad IME if 3/4 is "bomber" if they place plenty of gear on one of their first leads ... Now he knows where to improve

Of course on da intrawebz we all place absolute bomber gear every single time

None of us were there or followed up the climber in particular ... But thats MP

;)

Steven Amter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 40

An essential difference between trad and sport the the level of mental and physical biofeedback required. On many sport routes, especially the many "new-school" steep ones with closely spaced bolts, you go for it and either make it or fall off. Failing to stick a hold or pumping out and falling is the just the prelude to the desired eventual redpoint at the end of the process. Many people don't even start the climb with any plan - or illusions - of getting an onsight. In contrast, trad is "heady."  In trad you have to constantly gauge where you are on the pump-out-meter or the the degree to which you can hold your head together because the consequences of exceeding your limits are often potentially serious. Falling is often either not an option or a very questionable one, depending on the pro and the terrain. You may have to use nearly all your strength to get in pro, then still be able to downclimb to a rest. Or you may have to slam in the pro and go for it if you have just enough strength. You may have to execute a hard or delicate move believing/knowing you can do it without falling, and not panic or freeze up midstream. Success may require putting in your pro, and then being comfortable doing a long series of moves before your next protection stance/opportunity. The whole time in the background there is a constant analysis and inner dialog between your physical state and your mental control.  Both overcaution and overboldness can bite ya! This type of biofeedback is a learned skill that involves many different elements; thus, it can take a long time to master.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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