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Infrequent Jugging - Micro Traxion w/ biner instead of real ascender?

Original Post
jaredj · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 165

I'm considering a route with a friend that has three pitches of aid followed by the rest free climbing. I'm not all pimped out on aid gear yet, and the plan would be for my partner to lead the aid sections. I do have a couple of micro traxions that I use frequently for running TR solo laps.

My question is - can I use the micro trax in the same way I would an ascender for jugging (like with a biner in lieu of handle)? I have googled around and haven't read anything that clearly indicates why it is a poor idea. My thinking is their main shortcomings are (1) not being as easy to remove / reattach to the rope, and (2) not as good for releasing and down-jugging. For my limited application, these don't seem like dealbreakers (won't be doing any knot passing). I'll be jugging terrain that isn't steep and likely would be doing "Yosemite" style.

Is there some big difference between the microtraxion and the ascender that I'm missing that makes the ascender an essential tool for this job?

I know, I know, I'm gonna die.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969

That's one of the intended uses of the device, and the preferred method when a route is mostly free climbing with a few sections of aid. I do the same thing occasionally with a Gri-Gri 2 and a Ropeman II Ascender... much lighter than a "real" ascender set.

Thinking about trying Liberty Crack?

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I don't see any reason it can't be done. The main shortcoming IMO would be, as you said, it is more difficult to remove from the rope. This is something I do somewhat frequently to pass gear or roofs when jugging/cleaning.

Alan Doak · · boulder, co · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 120

My first time up Washington's Column, I only had prussiks. You'll be fine.

No matter what you use, it's a good idea to tie back up loops. And, it never hurts to practice your system first before getting on the wall.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375

Yep - I've done it. Not nearly as efficient as jugs, but gets the job done.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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