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Aid climbers

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Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Just moved back to area. Done all worthy lines in little cottonwood before ( that were published).
- Unknown route on peeler face, Hem line 99' (before mystery bolts appered), Tin man,Skin man, Black arch. Etc. Looking for something new to do. Any routes established in the last 10 yrs Or any other hard lines that might be hush hush. I would be happy to share a route or 2 that I've done as well. Cheers!

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

"All worthy lines"? So have you done the routes on the Coalpit, Fin, Bells Canyon and Lone Peak?

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I think worthy was not the correct word. done all a2 (and above) aid lines that looked to be a challenge that were published in the local wasatch books. All locations you mentioned yes I've done. And some other f.a . Looking for something new to do to increase my abilities and maybe get a bit stressed. Haha. Any suggestions? Thanks

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Ventral Fin. Hands down my favorite aid climb in the canyon. Motivated me to include lassos in a few routes. Get that throwing arm ready!

I climbed a new one up Black Pearl gulley and a new one near the bottom of the Fin. The one up Black Pearl is two pitches for one pitch of aid and the other is one short roof nailing route. There's a new one on the Black Peeler called Hell Broke Luce. It's posted on this site.

I'm curious to see more responses, as I too like short aid in the Wasatch. Also, what aid is up at Lone Peak other than whats in the book?

Please share what you have!

tda

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

In Bells, what did you think of Crown of Creation? Never done that.

I started a route that follows those diagonal seams left of The Flakes....never finished it.

Stevie's route on the Peeler looks cool.

If you want to get stressed, there's always Zion.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Aloha Bsmoot.
Been 15 yrs+/- since I've climbed C of C up bells (Hard time remembering anything about it) In the feild now. But will respond with more detail when i get back to my books. Thanks for the suggestion of the route you didn't quite complete. I will have to check into it in the short future..and get back with you. (As far as Zion).I consider it the Capital of stressed climbing!!! I love it... and Hell cut luce on peeler (was fun) a bit forced w all the rivits. Most routes in l.c have alot of blank sections. But i myself have been guilty of drilling some to make a line go.. it's a tough balance in establishing new lines with the ability that your at of the time of the f.a
There is allways room to improve.. but that could be a whole other topic.. any suggestions on more technical aid lines? Hoping to hear if there is any modern A3+ out there... Maholos

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

You want to share some other routes in LCC? Were still waiting to hear of some new stuff to go do. I think we only drilled 6 bolts on Hell Broke Luce maybe seven. At the time it didn't feel over drilled. The thin splitter at the top is good.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Hi Stevie..
It's hard to get info of new stuff..yes..
I think we're all a bit weary of sharing our stuff.
Here is a bone.. (not much of one) haha..
But still fun. (Visible from road). Upper east gate buttress left of flake routes. 3 diagonal cracks splitting it. Heading to the top of flakes route.
Starts on ramp left of the flake routes. Climb up and left on ramp.5.7 (Belay )then nail out right on diagonal Crack until you see rivet or hole and bolt above to gain another Crack seam going again diagonally cont on.(A2ish). I left a red tie off on a rurp or beak up higher on route that u should be able to see as you ascend. It gets less steep as you go. Kinda gets rampy up higher
III 5.7 A2ish Gets around. * 2003
Approach. Your choice, many opptions.
Rack: 2-3 rurps. 7-8 beaks. 3-4 kbs. 4 short la's. 1 & 2 angles as well as #1 & 2 sawed angles. I'm pretty sure no one has done the 2nd ascent. Lete know how it goes..
And please throw a bone my way if can... cheers

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Rad. Getting motivated to hang on gear in LCC again. Wait, I can't free climb for sh#t therefore I am always hanging on gear! I know of a pretty big roof that needs some aidin. Hey Brian, I'm down for the Crown whenever you are. I soloed the first two pitches in the middle of summer and bailed due to being a wimp.

Cool thread.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Stevie.. where is the black pearl gulley? And what was that route like?

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Its the gulley to the left (east) of Perlas Ridge. The route was two approach pitches to a thin overhung splitter. Not hard (A1+). I soloed it just to get away from people and hang around and look at views. I called it "Aid the Earth" If you want to get away and enjoy some LCC solitude, this is the place.

looking back at the 3rd pitch

Karl Kvashay · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 225

Hey Stevie, have you thought about "hanging on some gear" on Tucupit? If so you have a partner if you need one. No closures this year, just sayin!!

Stevie Nacho · · Utah · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 671

Hey karl
Email me

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Thx.Stevie for the idea. I appreciate the quick response. I too like to get away from the crowds and hang on gear. Ive recently moved back from a place that didnt have any climbing (unlike here)so my free skills suck..maybe some day we should get out. I live in s.l.c shout when your in the area..

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

Modern A3+ is much harder than old school aid ratings, so I don't know if there's much around here that would qualify...the cliffs aren't that high. I'd be happy to suggest stuff in Zion, but you may already know most of the hard aid there. In the early days we aid climbed because it was fun, and it also got us ready for Yosemite.

Although it won't help you, I can suggest some good routes under A3!

Stevie, The Crown sounds cool, but I've always wondered about that rotten last pitch.

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 3,023
bsmoot wrote: I started a route that follows those diagonal seams left of The Flakes....never finished it.
I didn't realize that was your child. That looks super hard. Futuristic free climbing along that seam.
Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Aloha b.smoot
Any suggestion of new stuff would be great, regardless of difficulty!

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

In Zion, here are a few:

- Wages of Sin V 5.10 A4, (Forbidden Wall) historic as the first original A5 in the canyon...pre beaks

- Lost Angel V 5.9 A3 (Angels Landing) Classic thin aid up a beautiful section of the wall.

- Lucifer's Ladder V 5.9 A3+ (Angles Landing) Cool looking climb with varied climbing.

- Hammer & Sickle V/VI 5.9 A3+ (Cable Mt.) Thin nailing up a north facing wall

- Latitudes VI A4 (Streaked Wall) Excellent difficult climbing in an outrageous location.

- Ghost Dance VI 5.9 A3 (Lady Mt.) Quality climbing up the beautiful smooth wall.

I've only done Lost Angel, but have heard good things about these others. There are harder aid climbs in Zion, I haven't heard much about them.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Awesome suggestions. Got me frothing.
Thanks bsmoot.

Kauait · · West is the best. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Hey Bsmoot. You got any suggestions in l.c.c how about your friend Garrett? Does he? Im jonesn to do sething new. By the way thought you and Garretts line ( idiodessey) was good up until we woke up at afro ledge w 6" of fresh snow on us..haha never went back to complete. How were the last pitches?

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 3,183

Can't think of anything at the moment...you've done everything! Yeah that free traverse would not have been fun in the snow. The last 3 pitches of Idiodessey were not as good as below, but still worth doing...the last pitch had a few sections of really soft rock...even James was alarmed! Great top out though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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