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> Bugaboos
> Crescent Spire
Paddle Flake Direct
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 54
votes
Routes in Crescent Spire
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Energy Crisis T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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McTech Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paddle Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paddle Flake Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Paddle to the Stars T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Roof McTech T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Surprisingly Subsevere T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Westside Story T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Woza Moya T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Chris Atkinson, Dan Redford, August 1989 |
| Page Views: | 10,614 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Oct 5, 2006 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.
Description
This is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.
P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.
P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and belay.
P3: Continue climbing the face heading up and right to a chimney, struggle up the chimney and belay on top at a two bolt anchor. (It is also possible to avoid the chimney by traversing to the right and climbing a hand crack to the same stance).
P4: Step right and climb up a steep crack corner to perfect hands through a roof. Pull the roof and belay in a crack to the left.
P5: Climb straight up awkward finger to fist sized cracks to the top of the ridge.
P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.
P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and belay.
P3: Continue climbing the face heading up and right to a chimney, struggle up the chimney and belay on top at a two bolt anchor. (It is also possible to avoid the chimney by traversing to the right and climbing a hand crack to the same stance).
P4: Step right and climb up a steep crack corner to perfect hands through a roof. Pull the roof and belay in a crack to the left.
P5: Climb straight up awkward finger to fist sized cracks to the top of the ridge.
Location
To get to this route climb up about 40' from the Crescent Glacier to a large ledge. Follow the ledge left to get to the start of the first pitch which is about 40' to the left of McTech Arete, and 10' left of a large left facing dihedral (that's a lot of left's). To get down walk east up the ridge to the top of McTech Arete and look out on the south face for a chain anchor. The anchor is not visible from above. Only one 60m rope is needed for the rappels.
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