Chamonix partners from mid September to end of month.

Hey all,

I'm going to be in Chamonix from September 11th to at least 25th, possibly later. I've got a couple people I'm talking to about climbing, but I'm traveling alone and still have more time than people to climb with, so if you're going to be in the area and are interested in alpine routes, let me know.

I lead 5.7, WI3, have some alpine experience in the Eastern Sierra, Tetons, Wind Rivers, and NE, and am looking to do routes in the AD-D range. I'm more interested in accumulating experience than bagging classic routes, and I'm especially interested in climbing with somewhat less experienced partners that might be matched to my skill level for AD routes.

Also, if anybody has info on conditions in Chamonix in September and comparisons to areas in the US that might be similar I'd appreciate any info. This will be my first time climbing in Europe and I'm looking for a point of reference for what to expect.

Thanks

Lots of information on conditions can be found on the UK Climbing Alpine forum: ukclimbing.com/forums/i.php…

Sounds like a tricky year due to the very high temperatures. Best of luck!

Dave

I'd suggest you make contingency plans for some area other than Chamonix given conditions this summer. Likely I'll be around France at that time, but I'm surely not betting on Chamonix.
. (unless you might want to join for the non-difficult Traverse of the Perrons des Vallorcine, since I'd prefer to do it first with a partner before I solo it).

For one thing, there might be substantial fresh snow by then.

For another, some of the lifts might not be operating very frequently.

Some of the AD + D routes you would normally attempt might have no possible approach (or descent) because of conditions of the glaciers this year.

Speaking only of alpine rock routes (since I do not know much about alpine ice climbing) ... even in a good year there really are not that many worthwhile AD + D rock routes around Chamonix. Chamonix is a pretty serious alpine place. With the right guidance, could be a good learning area. But figuring it out on your own it's more like the "final exam" for alpine climbing. Lots of unexpected ways to get hurt or die there.

Normally i'd suggest that somebody visiting Chamonix for rock be solid leading 5.10a Trad -- in order to have lots of good options. At 5.7 you better choose only "classic" routes, because anything around Chamonix at that level which is vaguely worthwhile gets designated as "classic". But after this summer, and with other obstacles in late Sept, there might be very little worthwhile alpine rock available at 5.7.

One thing I've noticed in a couple of reports of Euro alpine climbing on UKclimbing forum is comments like, "glad we chose this other place instead of Chamonix".

Ken

My plans are flexible, but I won't have a car and I'm not traveling with any other climbers, so I figured Chamonix would be the best place to find someone for alpine stuff.

What other places were you considering? I'd like to take advantage of climbing opportunities I might not have in the US, and accessible alpine terrain is hard to find around here. I'm not especially fixated on Chamonix otherwise.