Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Richard M. Wright, Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder (Dr. ABS)
Page Views: 2,929 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Oct 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a steep sport climb that combines pumpy jug moves in the first half, a very thin, technical crux in the middle, and more pumpy and inobvious moves to finish. Some of the holds in the first half appear suspect, but I've done the route three times now and I don't remember ever breaking anything. Despite a bit of loose rock and a less-than-perfect bolt placement at the crux (near your feet for the hardest moves), this is a wonderful Flatirons sport climb.

A second pitch (5.12b) climbs over a bulge on very small holds.

Per ??: on pitch two, there is a HUGE, loose block out right, leaving the belay, as you traverse up and right to the (hidden) first bolt. This thing is half the size of a car hood, is completely cracked, and is just sitting there, held on by gravity, on a sloping ledge. It is a total death bomb, kind of like the block on the Doub-Griffith that did eventually detach and cause a climbing accident.

Location Suggest change

This is on a steep, orange wall near the upper end of the Goose's south face. Start on the Sweet and Innocent corner, step left on a ledge at a small tree about 25 feet up, and clip the first bolt by a gaping, undercling flake.

Protection Suggest change

8 or 9 bolts to anchors. Bring long slings to extend the anchors for toproping. Maybe a few wires or small cams to protect the 30 feet of climbing to the first bolt.

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