All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall

Magic Light Start

Name: Magic Light Start
Rating: 3.5

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	9,957 total · 91/month
Shared By:	Nathan Scherneck on May 10, 2015
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This is the popular first pitch of the two pitch route Magic Light. It shares the first few bolts with Overboard, but veers left where Overboard goes right. Lots of good holds with a couple crux traverses makes this a less than sustained Smith 11.