Love Anasazi VCS - What's similar but stiffer (stays stiffer)?

I've climbed in only two types of shoes for awhile now, and looking to branch out. I use Anasazi VCS for the gym and cragging, and TC Pros (sized comfortably) for longer alpine.

I love the shape of the Anasazi VCS. I'd like a shoe that offers similar fit (shape), but doesn't soften up as much. Broken-in Anasazi VCSs are comfortable and all, but leave me wanting for the stiffness (insert joke here), especially after a resole.

Muiras and Muira VCS don't agree with my foot, fit-wise. Should I be looking at other flavors of the Anasazi line (greens? blancos?). Is my expectation of a shoe that doesn't soften up much unrealistic? Never thought about it much before and don't really have perspective on the issue.

Anasazi pinks are awesome. Size 1/2 size down from the vcs.

Ronbo wrote:Anasazi pinks are awesome. Size 1/2 size down from the vcs.

I second Ronbo. i have both the VCS and the pinks. I like using the VCS shoes for quick single pitch, or indoor gym climbs. But if im doing multi pitch climbs ill break out the pinks.

Personally i love the pinks more. but for short quick climbs, i don't like taking the time to take the shoes on and off since there lace up. ergo the VCS.

Well, the Anasazi Blanco would have been it. Its stiffer than the pink and climbs technical granite better than any shoe I have ever owned. Unfortunately the numbnutzes at Five-Ten discontinued it and instead now manufacture 35 different models of the same downturned shoe. Not sure why either because many of the photos of Kevin Jorgeson on the Dawn Wall show him wearing them and Sonny Trotter is in their ads on various hard things with them on. I guess steep vert just isn't in style enough anymore. So I guess you will have to settle for the pink as the gents above suggested.

Call Five-Ten and complain!! (mumbled the crotchety old curmudgeon)

J. Albers wrote:Well, the Anasazi Blanco would have been it.....

+1 (tho if you look at photos of Jorgeson sending, he's actually wearing TC Pros...)

Max Tepfer wrote: +1 (tho if you look at photos of Jorgeson sending, he's actually wearing TC Pros...)

Yeah, but probably because he wore all of his Blancos out and the only stiff shoe left in the world was the TC!! Which by the way, has anyone worn both the Blanco and the TC? Do they compare at all as far as performance when climbing techy stuff? (sorry for the thread drift jared)

Anyone know anything about the new 5.10 verdon, supposed to be rolled out soon? Possible reincarnation of the blancos? Some reviews floating around online...

J. Albers - I have worn both, blanco seems a bit better on tiny edges and smearing, but they're kind of poor crack shoes. think the TC is a better all around shoe.

OP - Have you tried anything in Scarpa? I have the Vapors and they seem to retain stiffness pretty well, same rubber as the Muira I believe as well.

As an underdog candidate, I used to climb in the Anasazi LV (women's) and switched to the Tenaya Inti (slightly wider toebox fit). They have a very similar but slightly stiffer feel (XS Grip rubber instead of XS edge).

5.10 makes a bunch of shoes on that last but I think the anasazi are the stiff/laced model and the Mocs are the slipper. One or two in between I think but again if thats the last you like I think you already have the "stiff" vertion and the only thing youcan do is down size. I like Mocs 1.5 sizes down but can only wear them for one or two hard pitches before I have to switch back to my TCs.

I don't really like the new Anasazi, I used them for like 5 years and have not wanted to change, after 1 pitch they hurt my feet now (not really bad but still to the point that next year i don't think I will buy them again). I my last year pair i did multi 1000ft climbs in yosemite on them without a problem. I think i am going to have to try some new shoes out now.

It looks like the redone 5.10 quantum will be more of a technical trad shoe… ever-so-slight downturn, asymmetric, stiff but still comfortable.

epictv.com/media/podcast/th…

Are the Pinks stiffer than the Moccasym??

cool thanks seth

J. Albers wrote:Call Five-Ten and complain!! (mumbled the crotchety old curmudgeon)

+1 on the curmudgeonly dismay at the disappearance of the blanco