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best/most efficient/easiest way for girlfriend to ascend lead line

Original Post
Christian Schrader · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 75

What would be a the best process for my girlfriend to ascend a rope after i finish freeclimbing a pitch on lead? She cannot climb harder than 5.6 outside but wouldn't mind following harder climbs. Is there a realistic way to have her do this?

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

If she can't climb harder than 5.6 I don't think jugging would be a good idea. It can be physical, and you do need a good base of experience to deal with passing pieces, dealing with traverses, etc.

Brendan Magee · · Parker, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Brassmonkey wrote:Dangle an engagement ring at the top of the pitch.
Perfect.
Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Jugging with a grigri

And you should probably go down on her too.
Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
WiseOldMoon wrote:What would be a the best process for my girlfriend to ascend a rope after i finish freeclimbing a pitch on lead? She cannot climb harder than 5.6 outside but wouldn't mind following harder climbs. Is there a realistic way to have her do this?
When you team up with a climbing partner, you have to choose objectives that work for you both as a team. If the hardest she can climb is 5.6, climb lots of 5.6s, and start throwing in 5.7s, and pretty soon the hardest she can climb will be 5.7, then 5.8... If all she ever does is ascend the rope, (assuming she doesn't get fed up with that real fast), best-case scenario she'll get really good at rope ascension but will never learn to climb harder.

When you climb with a partner that doesn't climb as hard as you, you need to climb within that limit - and find other partners that will be a better fit for harder climbs. If you think climbing 5.6 all day will be too boring for you, think about the incredibly monotonous thing you are asking her to do.

Brassmonkey wrote:Dangle an engagement ring at the top of the pitch.
Of course, I wrote all of the above under the assumption that she is your climbing partner, an equal member of the team deserving equal consideration and taking on equal responsibility. If on the other hand you think of her as just an accessory you need to drag up a climb by any means possible (like a haul bag?), then maybe offering something sparkly for a hard day of jugging would work. Who knows.
Tapawingo Markey · · Reno? · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

Just climbing longer multipitch easy/moderate routes at her grade, she'll have more fun doing it. If you're trying to push both of your grades maybe just stick to single pitch routes so she doesn't need to ascend a fixed line just to get to the top and give you a high-five (or a punch in the dick for making her jug up a rope). All in all, she's your girlfriend not your climbing partner, go grab someone that can climb harder to join you on harder, longer routes. It'll be better for the both of you.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
WiseOldMoon wrote:What would be a the best process for my girlfriend to ascend a rope after i finish freeclimbing a pitch on lead? She cannot climb harder than 5.6 outside but wouldn't mind following harder climbs. Is there a realistic way to have her do this?
Most efficient- new girlfriend who crushes 5.8

Easiest- find out what your girlfriend would actually like to do and then do it. I'll bet it isn't jumaring 5.8s. May not be climbing anything at all.

Best?- your call. But if you want to keep your girlfriend long term you might want to find a compromise wherein you get to climb at your desired standard while sometimes spending time with her that she genuinely enjoys. Could be climbing. Could be antiquing. You are certainly best off finding out now.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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