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Medic741
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Aug 12, 2015
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Des Moines, IA (WTF)
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 265
Wanted some thoughts here - have gotten on some of the classics in the Adirondacks and have a question about Gamesmanship. Have felt comfortable on the 5.8's that I've climbed in the ADK - Diagonal, Rockaholic, and Arachnid Traction. Arachnid traction felt like it was at the limit of my lead comfort zone and took a good lead fall on it at the topout. Starting to try and push my climbing and really love the history of this incredible park. Really wanting to get on gamesmanship on my next outing and wondering if there are any 'testpieces' that I should feel 100% solid on before getting on this route as it's listed at 5.8+, and the 5.8 grade has felt pretty stout in the ADK! Thanks! Matt
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rocknice2
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Aug 12, 2015
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Montreal, QC
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 3,847
The hardest move is at the flaring crack close to the ground. Depending how you attack it, it can be casual or desperate. Make sure you have a good piece of pro and an attentive belayer. The rest of the pitch is nice 5.8 climbing. The double crack pitch is fantastic. For a true splitter crack climbing experience try to only use the lefthand crack. Arachnid Traction is way more sustained than Gamesmanship. Great route, you'll have a ton of fun on it. Beware it's very popular.
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KVRob
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Aug 13, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 0
Second what Rocknice said
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KVRob
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Aug 13, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 0
Second what Rocknice said
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Kevin Heckeler
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Aug 13, 2015
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 1,616
Aside from the start, nothing on Gamesmanship is harder than those final 20-30 feet on Arachnid Traction. I guess this is third what rocknice said. I'm just getting back to consistently leading 5.8 this year and wouldn't hesitate to hop on Gamesmanship. Arachnid Traction, on the other hand, will wait.
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PeterW Whitmore
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Aug 13, 2015
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Dryden, NY
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 50
If you can do Rockaholic and Arachnid you won't have any trouble with Gamesmanship. Have at it. Might want to do it on a weekday or have an alternate objective in mind. That route can get pretty busy. Paralysis is a good route just down the way. Most everything else is harder, although climbs like Bloody Mary, Green Onion, Scallion and a few others are well protected. Poko bakes in the sun until mid afternoon.
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Medic741
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Aug 13, 2015
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Des Moines, IA (WTF)
· Joined Apr 2012
· Points: 265
Awesome! Thanks for all the feedback guys, guess I'll give it a go next trip. Anyone free to climb it some Tuesday in September? Don't have classes that day and could meet out there Monday night. Would love to do Regular route on chapel pond quick in the morning then get on gamesmanship (or get on The El, Pete's Farewell or other megaclassics in that area//grade). If you're down for 10 pitches of fun some Tuesday in September shoot me a PM! From what you guys have said about Gamesmanship being a busy route has been echoed by most who I've met, the recommendation to do it on a weekday has been a consistent one.
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ClimbLikeAGirl
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Aug 13, 2015
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Keene Valley
· Joined Jun 2015
· Points: 15
Medic741 wrote:Awesome! Thanks for all the feedback guys, guess I'll give it a go next trip. Anyone free to climb it some Tuesday in September? Don't have classes that day and could meet out there Monday night. Would love to do Regular route on chapel pond quick in the morning then get on gamesmanship (or get on The El, Pete's Farewell or other megaclassics in that area//grade). If you're down for 10 pitches of fun some Tuesday in September shoot me a PM! From what you guys have said about Gamesmanship being a busy route has been echoed by most who I've met, the recommendation to do it on a weekday has been a consistent one. I would agree that by 11am on a Saturday there's probably a cue lined up at the base. But if you're looking to get to Poko mid-week, especially in September, I doubt you'd have much problem getting right on the route. I've done mostly mid-week climbing at Poko and rarely see more than 1 or 2 parties there at all. Saturday afternoons are completely different stories. If you're doing Gamesmanship, I'd also recommend the Sting right next door. Similarly to Gamesmanship, the crux is basically right off the ground. Bring some small cams or small nuts for the start, but the placements are bomber.
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