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> 04 Northern Alps
> Chamonix Mont B…
> Aiguilles Rouges
> Le Brévent
Voie Frison-Roche
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.4 from 57
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Routes in Le Brévent
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Crakoukass S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ex Libris T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Fin de Babylone S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Piste Oubliée S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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La Somone S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Label Virginie, 250m, 5c, Plan Praz / Brevent S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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New Piola Route S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Poeme a Lou S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Premier de Corvée T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Retour a Bretagne T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Voie Frison-Roche S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 13,955 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | Seleucus on Jul 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre |
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Description
This route is a true classic in the Aiguille Rouges. It maintains a fairly consistently difficulty throughout. The 4th and 5th pitches are real beauties with fantastic cracks somewhat anomalous for the Aiguilles Rouges.
Pitch 1 (5.10-): The first pitch moves from a bolt on the face at the end of the approach path. From here, the climb move up the pillar and follows the bolt line. One or two difficult moves lead to a grassy ledge at the end of which is a belay before the next vertical section.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Go up straight and then traverse right until you reach the belay ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.9): This short pitch goes up a broken but juggy crack system with somewhat loose holds.
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Climbing Pitch 3 on Voie Frison-Roche
Pitch 4 (5.10-): Go up the bolt line on a slabby face until you reach a 10m vertical crack. Pull through this crack, the crux, and belay at the top.
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Climbing the Crux on Pitch 4 of Voie Frison-Roche.
Pitch 5 (4th class): From the belay go to the left and then right until you reach the obvious dihedral with a big crack in the center of it.
Pitch 6 (5.9): Climb up the crack in the center of the dihedral pulling through a few difficult sections to reach the belay at the top.
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The last pitch of the route Voie Frison-Roche
Pitch 1 (5.10-): The first pitch moves from a bolt on the face at the end of the approach path. From here, the climb move up the pillar and follows the bolt line. One or two difficult moves lead to a grassy ledge at the end of which is a belay before the next vertical section.
Pitch 2 (5.8): Go up straight and then traverse right until you reach the belay ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.9): This short pitch goes up a broken but juggy crack system with somewhat loose holds.
Pitch 4 (5.10-): Go up the bolt line on a slabby face until you reach a 10m vertical crack. Pull through this crack, the crux, and belay at the top.
Pitch 5 (4th class): From the belay go to the left and then right until you reach the obvious dihedral with a big crack in the center of it.
Pitch 6 (5.9): Climb up the crack in the center of the dihedral pulling through a few difficult sections to reach the belay at the top.
Location
The easiest way to reach the route is to take the Telepherique to Planpraz and then to Brevent. From here follow the main trail north. At the col continue east (along the ski piste) toward Chamonix. At the second switchback leave the trail and follow a trail of cairns to the trending toward the rock face. At the end of the trail, you'll see a bolt at the base.
From the top, you can walk to the telepherique by going left along the top of the cliff. You can take the telepherique down back to Chamonix. Alternatively you can hike to Planpraz and from there to Chamonix.
From the top, you can walk to the telepherique by going left along the top of the cliff. You can take the telepherique down back to Chamonix. Alternatively you can hike to Planpraz and from there to Chamonix.
Guidebooks
The following guidebooks have descriptions of this route (and typically many others in the region).
English Language
Les Aiguilles Rouges Volume 1 (Michel Piola)
French
Plasir West (Jürg von Känel)
Escalades Choisies: Mont-Blanc, Aiguilles Rouges (Glenant)
Les Aiguilles Rouges (Thomas Dulac and Godefroy Perroux)
English Language
Les Aiguilles Rouges Volume 1 (Michel Piola)
French
Plasir West (Jürg von Känel)
Escalades Choisies: Mont-Blanc, Aiguilles Rouges (Glenant)
Les Aiguilles Rouges (Thomas Dulac and Godefroy Perroux)
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