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AnnaG19
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Jul 21, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 5
hey ya'll, so i have a question about climbing shoe wear. i've had this pair of shoes for about three weeks now, and they're wearing at about where the joint of my big toe meets the ball of my foot. i bought these to replace my old ones because they wore in the same place. i climb mainly indoors (unfortunately), and i'm not super advanced in my routes yet, i'm on v4 boulders and 5.9 top ropes. anyone have similar issues or know why they might be wearing there? i feel like it's some combo of indoor climbing, the shoes themselves, and my foot work.
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jcm537
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Jul 21, 2015
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Broomfield, Co.
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 0
My guess is footwork. Most beginners tend to edge there instead of the toe. I wouldnt worry about the shoes. It appears there is plenty of rubber on the toe for when your technique improves.
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Gunkiemike
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,492
The quick answer is because that's where you stand on the holds.
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Michael Brady
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Jul 22, 2015
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Wenatchee, WA
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 1,362
powhound84 wrote: You can boulder V4 but only top rope 5.9? That's very strange since V4 is like a crux move on a 5.12-. Thats the gym for ya. I wouldn't worry about the wear. Your footwork will improve and your shoes will start lasting longer. In the mean time just wear the shit out of those things, and I mean really just wear them out. There is no sense in continually buying shoes when you are just starting out.
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coldfinger
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 55
Yeah that's pretty common place for shoe wear. Not really even "edging" at all just putting the ball of the big toe on a hold while your toes get stronger, which takes a while. So doubt there's much wear at all on the actual edge. And as for all the "boulders V4 topropes 5.9" snark: that's pretty common for beginners who have some talent and strength to begin with but are still working through the complexities of roped climbing. Especially true for trad. Play nice.
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coldfinger
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 55
My operating theory is that its nobody's business but hers what she climbs and how she climbs it. As for where they are wearing: 1. typical beginner foot technique. 2. if she is climbing a lot of steep stuff indoors and out, THAT is a very common wear point. And you all really don't have a full enough climbing CV on her to make judgements.
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Guy Keesee
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Jul 22, 2015
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Moorpark, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 349
Completely normal, climbing shoes wear out pretty quickly.... I go through 3 pairs per year. Wearing out shoes, ropes and whole racks is part of the game..... If your choking on the $$$$$$ you spend..... Look at the cost of a good Mt Bike Or a day on the slopes. Find a good resoler..... Locker does really good work.... Happy climbing
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doligo
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 264
Hey, Anna. What shoes are those? The reason I'm asking is that LS puts softer stickier xsGrip rubber on women's specific shoes and bouldering shoes for sensitivity. I love that rubber but it doesn't last very long. Next time you buy shoes, pay attention what rubber they have on. Usually men's versions of the same shoes have xsEdge rubber which is more durable. When you send your shoes for resole make sure to ask for xsEdge and not C4 (which is another popular resoling rubber that is sticky but is not very durable especially if it's warm).
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Mathias
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Jul 22, 2015
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Loveland, CO
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 306
You can just keep those shoes for the gym and wear them til there's nothing left, but buy another pair for outdoors where holds are smaller and footwork is more critical. I gave up on wearing anything but my worst pair in the gym because the holds are so big. It's more challenging using floppy, saggy, worn out shoes in the gym, but it just means you have to pay more attention to your footwork when you're there. Which I consider good training. My first pair of shoes had similar wear from gym climbing. I've found it's common in the gym to see people pivoting on footholds with a lot of weight on the hold. I used to do it too, which seemed to cause more wear. I also noticed that I don't pivot like that outside, so I try not to do it inside any more, but I see it all the time.
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Mathias
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Jul 22, 2015
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Loveland, CO
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 306
Jake, you're right about the rubber. Perhaps putting weight on that area is causing the sole to dimple in but isn't visible from the angle the photo was take, and the OP just thinks it wear.
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Rob Gordon
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Jul 22, 2015
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Hollywood, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 115
Use your big toe, not the ball of your foot.
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bearbreeder
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
Rob Gordon wrote:Use your big toe, not the ball of your foot. unless yr doing friction slab ... ;)
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coldfinger
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 55
OR SMEDGING ON SHARP KNOBS! I actually wore a hole right through a pair of slippers in the same spot (ish) from training laps while (gasp) bouldering. It's a pretty sweet spot for using the sole of a shoe to grab knobs and other sharp points with your toes. Point being that good technique means use the best part of the shoe for the task at hand. And not simply edging everything. Moving around a lot on a hold while standing on it will drastically increase wear on the rubber. I tend to unweight my foot if I need to reposition my foot as I move up. Oh and since it's a La Sportiva shoe, if it has the P3 platform in the midsole, THAT'S the reason for a dimple.
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Rob Gordon
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Jul 22, 2015
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Hollywood, CA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 115
Yes. Technique is more complicated than a one sentence tag line. But in her situation it is likely what she needs to focus on.
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AnnaG19
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 5
Hey everyone! Thanks so much for the advice! I'll work on more precise footwork (because I need to anyway), then when i need to resole these shoes i'll get a harder rubber resole. I know im not hitting holds how i should be because the joint of my big toe and foot is pretty painful haha. As for the v4, 5.9 debate, i've only been climbing since December and i'm only now getting into consistant top-roping. Thanks ya'll! If you have more thoughts or advice please post it!!
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Steven Groetken
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Aug 8, 2015
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Durango, CO
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 390
Yeah, that's not wear, you're shoes are good. Now go outside and crank on some cracks and then look at the difference in the rubber. You should have around 4mm of rubber to work through, and your shoes still show the manufacturing lines. It'll be a while before they need a resole.
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