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Best crags near DFW (Dallas Fort Worth) area. Trad, Sport, or Top Rope

Original Post
BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

I will be traveling for work in Texas in late August and I'd like to get out there and climb Texas!

Somewhat clunky to use this forum to find out the climbing locations, hoping that someone can point me in the right direction? I can bring my own gear with me. I will have a rental car as well!

Better yet, does anyone need a partner? Aug 23-25?

Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

How long will you be in town for?

The reason I ask is because there is no climbing worth a damn anywhere close to DFW.

Closest is Mineral Wells (1.5hrs drive) but it's TR only, some of the worst rock I've climbed on and tops out at a whopping 25 feet. But it's climbing and its outside, so I've done it in a bind.

Other than that you have Enchanted Rock (4hrs drive) near Fredricksberg. Pretty good spot by Texas standards but not a ton of variation. Lots of slab and a few decent crack systems.

Your best bet given the timeframe and weather might be looking to DWS in Lake Whitney. I've never been but am actually in the process of arranging a trip for August. Will probably rent a pontoon boat for a day and hit all the best areas with some friends.

Not sure if it will overlap with your dates, but if it does I'm sure we could fit one more.

Ryan

Jake Gluck · · AZ · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 119

As mentioned above you're going to have to drive a bit to get any good climbing.

There's also Reimer's Ranch outside of Austin which is 3.5 hours south of Fort Worth. It's all sport climbing there and well worth the drive in my opinion. They have over 100 routes.

Also there is Monster Rock and Pace Bend close by to Reimers. Monster Rock is 52 routes on one acre of land. It's mostly sport with a few top ropes. It gets a little sketchy because some of the routes are in a canyon that can't be more than 7 feet wide. Pace Bend is DWS.

If you drive roughly the same distance north into Oklahoma there's the Wichita Wildlife Refuge. It seems to be mostly trad with a little bit of sport and some bouldering from what I hear.

If you ever don't want to drive as far but still want to climb hit up the area gyms. Summit has 3 DFW locations and has good bouldering. If you want good top rope and sport go to the North Texas Outdoor Pursuit Center in Carrollton. They have 120 foot routes and is less crowded than Summit.

Also the best burgers in DFW are next door at Twisted Root.

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks for the replies Ryan and Jake!

Ryan - I will be in town for a week but it looks like the days I have free are Aug 23-25. If that happens to coincide with your schedule I'd totally pitch in on that boat!

I did some DWS in Mallorca Spain this summer and it's a lot scarier than I thought. I was falling/jumping from 40-50 feet up.

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Alright man! Will do!

Jake Gluck · · AZ · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 119

Baylord,
I've been looking for bouldering near Fort Worth. All I've found has been Eisenhower State Park which is good but it'll be underwater for the foreseeable future. Also checked Nolan River which was alright there was a few fun problems. I also got a chance to check out tonkawa falls. Where else in the area has some decent boulders?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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