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car to car in tetons

Original Post
pierref · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Hi to tetons experts,

I never been in tetons. What are your suggestions for car to car day climb.
Thanks a lot

Scot Hastings · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

It's a big day (7000' vertical), but you can do the Grand car-to-car. We took our time, pitching out and simuling the Upper Exum, and got back right around 19 hours.

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I'm no expert, but I think the car to car Upper Exum is the classic day trip... Likely some type 2 fun involved unless you are super fit.

Some of the other peaks may be a bit easier, but if you're going to do a summit with a big approach, might as well go for the big one!

Be sure to acclimatize a bit if possible before making the attempt.

Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

The Owen-Spalding and Upper Exum on the Grand seem to be the classic car-to-car day climbs, either solo or with a partner. I think the southwest couloir on the Middle Teton would also be pretty straightforward (12 miles round trip). I'm no local though!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
pierref wrote:I never been in tetons.
Lot's of hiking, lot's of elevation gain, lot's of big descents, with a little rock climbing in the middle of it all.

And regarding the OP - once again, all the earmarks of an Elanor troll-post.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
powhound84 wrote: Gotta disagree, this is not Eleanor. She generally doesn't contribute anything useful. Look at the OPs other contributions over the past couple months.
You're right! Missed that entirely. I see the blank profile page and relatively recent sign-up and sometimes don't think to click on the contributions tab. Number of posts on that profile page would help a lot more than # of "points" - whatever those are.
Sorry OP!
JonW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

In addition to the Grand, also check out some of the routes on Symmetry Spire. A shorter approach and several pitches of good rock. Also, Baxter's pinnacle and Guides Wall are great climbs that people climb in a day as well.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
JonW wrote:In addition to the Grand, also check out some of the routes on Symmetry Spire. A shorter approach and several pitches of good rock. Also, Baxter's pinnacle and Guides Wall are great climbs that people climb in a day as well.
Worthy and fun routes, with Guide's Wall relatively short in comparison to the larger objectives. However, none of those are as rewarding as one of the major summits in the range IMHO.
Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know if doing the Middle and the South Teton car-to-car is a thing? Have there been any speed records set? It seems like a logical link-up and a sweet traverse to climb the north ridge of Middle to the Northwest Couloir on South Teton and out. Probably gonna do it tomorrow regardless, but just wondering if anyone had any beta.

Rob Wild · · Gardiner, MT · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
Chris Dickson wrote:Not to hijack the thread, but does anybody know if doing the Middle and the South Teton car-to-car is a thing? Have there been any speed records set? It seems like a logical link-up and a sweet traverse to climb the north ridge of Middle to the Northwest Couloir on South Teton and out. Probably gonna do it tomorrow regardless, but just wondering if anyone had any beta.
It's a long day, but very much do-able. Especially if you're comfortable enough to do the North Ridge of Middle without roping up. That's the only moderately tough part. The scramble down the SW Couloir of Middle is pretty straightforward 3rd class, and the scramble up South is, too (although an ax might be needed for the snowfield on South).
Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

Thanks, Rob. I did it today and it was very enjoyable. Also, it all went pretty quick, but I guess that depends on whether you are soloing or pitching out the North Ridge (which I found only had one twenty foot pitch of technical climbing). I went up the North Ridge, down the Southwest Couloir and then up the South Teton. Lots of fun and all the north aspects are finally drying up!

Joe Prescott · · Berlin Germany · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 6

IMO, if it's your 1st trip, the Grand is the way to go. I've been there 3 times and all 3 trips were car-to-car. I'm pretty average finess and climbing ability and maybe a tad on the wimpy side for unroped boldness. 1st trip was Upper Exum and pitched out 3 or 4 short sections in 15 hours, including getting lost in the dark in the moraine for a long time (late start-10am). 2nd trip was the OS, soloing with partner and rapping. Took our sweet time for a 15:30. 3rd trip was today and soloed up to Catwalk and turned back due to wetness and some ice (I'm not bold). Didn't bring a rope and made it back to the car in almost exactly 8 hours traveling alone.

I think it would be way more work doing it in the normal style over 2 days. Do it!

Joe

pierref · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Great ideas.

Thanks everybody

Pierre

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 120

I'm camping at the Moraine and trying to add an ascent of the Middle Teton. Seems like the North Ridge is accessible from the Lower Saddle.

are rope/rack needed, or can it be a scramble? What about the descent? Route info seems to differ.

thanks.

Chris Dickson · · Telluride, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 678

Hey Buckie, I did the North Ridge of Middle yesterday and it's pretty chill. From the lower saddle, I imagine you could climb up, and then back down the route to the lower saddle (with maybe a few raps to make things easier) in around 4 hours (and this would really be taking your time). There is one (maybe two) technical pitches and both climb out of notches along the ridge at 5.6 (could be made harder if desired). Routefinding can be a little tricky, but overall its a pretty short ridge climb that goes quickly. The MP page for the route is seriously lacking, so I'm gonna do a little work on it today. Cheers!

Charles Jonas · · Alpine, WY · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 102

Pretty much any of the grade I & II (and probably most III) climbs in the Tetons can be done as a day trip. I've actually never camped on any of my summits. The extra weight vs time saved just doesn't really seem worth it for most climbs. Hiking fast, you can hit the meadows (popular camping spot) in under 2 hours. Some people camp as high up as the lower saddle, which seems like a lot of work to drag all your extra gear 80% of the way up the grand.

sandrock · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 120

thanks Chris!

stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 66

If your fit, I would also recommend ditching the overnight gear, and do the Grand car to car IAD. I did the Upper Exum, and the O.S., in the last 2 years, on separate trips, both from the AAC climbers Ranch.
There is a clearly marked trail thru the meadows.
I might add that I'm 69, and from the East Coast.

I also turned back on one trip, upon arriving at the Lower Saddle, and the wind was so strong, I could barely stand up.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
stephen arsenault wrote:I might add that I'm 69, and from the East Coast.
Might also point out that you're this guy:

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Things are just easier for those folks who are legends...

Ha ha!
WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

East Face of Teewinot is an option as well.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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