Dark Star with a 30m?

Finally getting around to doing Dark Star. Both of my partner and I are experienced soloing (and downclimbing) alpine rock up to 5.8. Do we need a full length rope for the harder pitches and/or raps on DS, or is it the usual Temple Crag 5-25' of climbing at the grade for the entire pitch?

For background I have done Sun Ribbon to Sill with a 30m, only roping up to lead the first ~25m of the SRA crux pitch.

thanks,
Michelle

I'm doing Dark Star on Sunday. I'll pretend I'm climbing with a 30 meter and see if it's possible. I'll let you know on Monday night. According to the topo each pitch above 5.8 is 100 ft which is really to close to know. There is also a 130 ft pitch that has some 5.10 in it, maybe an alternate belay might work? Anyway, I'll check to see if it's obvious.

If you simul a bit then 30 could get you there, otherwise a 40 would be spot on.

thanks, Jon and Ryan! Jon, I'm hoping to do it this weekend, though not sure which day. Maybe I'll see you.

Hope so. I'll bring you an extra chocolate bar. :)

Jon Hartmann wrote:Hope so. I'll bring you an extra chocolate bar. :)

I thought the first buttress is fairly sustained, as well as the second. But I don't have the comparison of having done Sun Ribbon to know what you're comfortable soloing. More than I, for sure!

So, the weight savings are matched against possibly doing more pitches, gambling more on simul/soloing?

In all, yes, you'll be soloing a lot either way. I wouldn't bother simuling at all after the second buttress is gained, just solo. Not that you need any encouragement. Nor can I help you on the raps. I don't think they were anywhere near full 30m raps or anything, but I can't even recall if we had a 60m or a 70m.

Cool proposition, I hope it works out for you.

Colonel Mustard wrote:I thought the first buttress is fairly sustained, as well as the second. But I don't have the comparison of having done Sun Ribbon to know what you're comfortable soloing. More than I, for sure! So, the weight savings are matched against possibly doing more pitches, gambling more on simul/soloing? In all, yes, you'll be soloing a lot either way. I wouldn't bother simuling at all after the second buttress is gained, just solo. Not that you need any encouragement. Nor can I help you on the raps. I don't think they were anywhere near full 30m raps or anything, but I can't even recall if we had a 60m or a 70m. Cool proposition, I hope it works out for you.