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$100 ten sleep 2015 guidebook, worth it?

Bradclymber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

I think an artsy guide is actually a pretty cool thing. At least Extreme Angle is doing something different that hasn't been done before (although I do agree with Brian S. about The Gunk's and Tower guides). Pretty cool idea I think. But price prohibitive for me personally.

That being said I will probably get this cheaper guide as it's more in my price range.

nextascent.org/ten-sleep-cl…

Just my two cents though

bob branscomb · · Lander, WY · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,178

I saw the new Ten Sleep guide at last...really quite a nice piece of work, I have to admit. Probably be a collector's item someday, like the '72 Chouinard equipment catalog. It seems pretty criminal that the author gets so little for each book.

Matt Enlow · · Wyoming · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 589

It's honestly been amazing having a book with a leather cover and a built-in bookmark. $100? That's up to you. Darren from Vegas obviously thinks it's terrific though.

Darren reads the bible

webdog · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0

8 bolts in 40ft?, I don't even think gyms are that over bolted!

Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

Keep in mind that both RRG and NRG guidebooks now total $70 (now that they've been bifurcated).

I was on the list for the new guidebook. It actually came out while I was in Ten Sleep a couple weeks back, but I balked at the price. It seemed like _everyone_ was looking for a guidebook while I was there, so I"m sure the price in large part is a reflection of the high demand. Luckily, we were able to borrow the last edition from some friends, as the first couple days we only had MP which was pretty awful.

However, Aaron Huey should be able to make whatever guidebook he desires. If it wasn't in large part a creative endeavor, I'm sure he'd consider it a waste of time. As someone who spent a large portion of his life climbing in and developing Ten Sleep (and as a person with a decidedly artistic bent), it's no wonder he wanted to imbue the guidebook with more than just topos and bolt counts. It may not hold value for some people, but the extent to which he (and Mike Williams, and Ray Ellington) went above and beyond the "essential" is greatly valued by many.

It's unfortunate that the gouge-y price set by the publisher is reflecting poorly on Mr. Huey. If you're interested, you should check out his TED talk on Black Hills indian reservations...

Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989
K2tbui wrote:If the author''s intended audience is a typical climber then he is demonstrating either absolute ignorance or disregard (for us) with this price. You are hard press to find any climber with a $100 guide book in his collection. My assumption is that he made this new addition for himself and the artistic value and cared less about the needs of the "typical climber." The biblical cover (???) might as well be a middle finger taunting us. He is the author so I guess it is his right to do so.
Really can't stress this enough: THIS IS THE PUBLISHER FUCKING THE AUTHOR.
Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

It's synthetic leather, btw.

Tom Jones · · Calgary, AB · Joined May 2012 · Points: 7,302
Nick Stayner wrote:Scoggins got it right- not the author's fault, he's pissed about it too. If you two aren't too busy vilifying the guy who's responsible for bolting a ton of classics, publicizing the area, and writing all editions of the guidebook, you should read from the beginning of the thread and get the backstory.
Does Aaron have a post somewhere where he explains the situation? Just wondering, I've never met the guy but heard from Charlie that he's awesome.
Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,191
Bradclymber wrote:I think an artsy guide is actually a pretty cool thing. At least Extreme Angle is doing something different that hasn't been done before (although I do agree with Brian S. about The Gunk's and Tower guides). Pretty cool idea I think. But price prohibitive for me personally. That being said I will probably get this cheaper guide as it's more in my price range. nextascent.org/ten-sleep-cl… Just my two cents though
Well...that was destined to happen! Overprice your product...and the competitors will swoop in to meet the demand curve at its optimal point!

nextascent.org/ten-sleep-cl…

I expected to see someone do this via an APP (Rakkup or otherwise) versus another printed guide. I think that is still likely for such a popular area.

Personally, I love guidebooks and have a large collection...including the last 2 editions (not this $100 edition) of the Ten Sleep guide. I hate it...but I think the age of the printed guidebook is soon to end. I have some guide-APPS..but for me...I MUCH prefer the printed books...but $100 is getting a bit crazy. The problem here is that most of that cost is for the "art" not the info. So, those looking for the info (the majority) are going to ultimately choose the lower cost option.
Tom Jones · · Calgary, AB · Joined May 2012 · Points: 7,302
dnoB ekiM wrote: Well...that was destined to happen! Overprice your product...and the competitors will swoop in to meet the demand curve at its optimal point! nextascent.org/ten-sleep-cl…
is this a real thing? That isn't the actual cover? looks like a lonely planet edition of ten sleep climbing...
Mike Bond · · Kentucky · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 3,191
thomasg wrote: is this a real thing? That isn't the actual cover? looks like a lonely planet edition of ten sleep climbing...
They appear to be a legit climbing guide publisher...but I do not have any info on them or the book. My presumption is they are seeing the market not accept the current book and its price and are basically going to produce a more reasonably priced "copy" of the INFO...and not the ART.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

I would be wary of buying that book sight unseen.
mountainproject.com/v/new-b…

I hope this book turns out to be a better product than his last

Sarah Canterbury · · Charleston, WV · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 40

I don't think people would complain so much about a higher than average price that appeared to be aimed at compensating the author for his hard work or supporting the local gear coalition. Spending money on things like leather binding and 3D glasses is a complete waste. I won't be buying this edition.

Next Ascent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40

Hi I just came across this,

Yes, Next Ascent is indeed doing a guidebook app for Ten Sleep as well as a print guide. I think that the existing guide is excellent and an amazing and incredibly artistic book. I commend them on the amount of time and detail that went into their guide.

Our guide was already in the works and does not reflect on the cost; just a timing thing really.

We just released a Devils Tower app:

itunes.apple.com/us/app/nex…

The Ten Sleep will have similar format to The Tower app. It's a select right now but will be comprehensive in about a month or so, so we have a reduced price right now to allow climbers to get in at a great value.

Tom Gnyra,

I agree the cover does indeed look like a cookie-cutter travel book :) We had a designer who helps us put up a quick cover. I think we will change that immediately, as it is a very basic moc.

If anyone has photos they would like to contribute, we are happy to publish them in the guide and app. We can offer a free advance sample if we use your pic. And a free print guidebook as well as a lifetime subscription to our Guidebook app library. We currently have 10 app guides but plan to have a more substantial library very soon.

Any photos can be emailed to

nextascentguides@gmail.com

Thanks so much for noticing us :}

Rob H

Go Back to Super Topo · · Lex · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 285
Mike Brady wrote:I would be wary of buying that book sight unseen. mountainproject.com/v/new-b… I hope this book turns out to be a better product than his last
All of Aaron's books have been superb so I'm not sure what in the hell you are talking about but his guidebooks are ten times better than nearly every falcon book for example

I still stand by my mindset that Wolverine publishers are the best all round guidebooks, but Aaron is a ten sleep local and write the books in a very Ten Sleep manner, in a way that fits the culture and I, for one, love it
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,330
mozeman wrote: All of Aaron's books have been superb so I'm not sure what in the hell you are talking about but his guidebooks are ten times better than nearly every falcon book for example I still stand by my mindset that Wolverine publishers are the best all round guidebooks, but Aaron is a ten sleep local and write the books in a very Ten Sleep manner, in a way that fits the culture and I, for one, love it
Did you even read the link? He's slagging on Rob Holzman's book, not Aaron's.
Next Ascent · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 40

Glenn,

I agree. Aaron did an awesome job and is a fantastic resource on Ten Sleep as well as a great photojournalist.

I just want to mention that I am not the author of the Ten Sleep guide and the production of the book will be the best we have ever done. We are utilizing an American company (yes, we're staying away from the trend of using overseas printers) and plan to make a truly beautiful, full-color, GLOSSY paged guidebook.

As soon as I can I'm happy to send out a sample chapter but we are in no way rushing this book and plan to take all the time needed to make it as accurate, high quality, and detailed as possible.

Thank you so much everyone who has contacted us and I will make it a priority to email you a sample chapter as soon as we get to that stage.

We are also considering doing a lofty free section for our app if climbers think that might be a useful resource....suggestions for sections gladly welcome :)

Again, thanks again for looking into us, we truly appreciate it in our early stages.

Cheers
Rob H

John Cameron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 275

I just gotta say that I probably paid more than $100 for a text book in college of some subject or class I didn't even need.... If I spent more time in ten sleep or made more money I would buy one. I love guide books.

richardd · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 10

It's a beautiful bit of work, and while it's just too nice to take along, it'll pay for itself in the pleasure I'll have reading and re-reading it, like my copy of the Noyce and Edwards guide to Lliwedd. Much of my climbing occurs entirely in my head, from my comfy armchair...

Mike Snyder · · Cody, WY · Joined May 2008 · Points: 4,671

The new Huey guidebook is the evolution of Aarons creativity and handiwork. It is his 'Magnum Opus' and will most likely be the last for a number of reasons. He wanted to get all of the great and crazy irreverence this time into a final edition, that has been the hallmark of each version throughout the years as we kept adding to and growing the amount of climbing in the canyon. Is it a generic bolt count, grade, description and location guide - hell no! Its way more and less at the same time. Buy it or don't, its really a preference or finances thing for most climbers. There are other ways of gleaning the info needed to make the most of a climbing trip to Ten Sleep.

That being said the latest book has created an opportunity to fill a niche below what a $100 book with an artistic slant offers. It appears Next Ascent will offer something written by some outsider in both print and digital versions for about 1/3 the price, initially a greatest hits book but eventually becoming a comprehensive guide.

As a developer, active since 1999 and familiar with nearly every route in the canyon and aware of the FA and history associated with damn near everything, I will be putting together a digital guide for RAKKUP available as a mobile device app. This will be a no frills, low cost offering providing name, grade, bolt count, anchor type, description, sun/shade aspect, history and any other relevant info associated with each climb. The app offers GPS trail routing, much better parking area and wall approach descriptions. In addition it is a one time purchase that will continually be updated as routes go in and new crags are developed. A print guide may be offered at some point in the future but initially only the digital version will be offered. Look for it at RAKKUP.com on your computer or get the free app on your mobile device. We are shooting for a Spring 2016 release.

Choose which guide is right for you or try to get what you need from MP for free. Come and enjoy Ten Sleep during the Summer months as it is one of Americas greatest limestone /dolomite climbing destinations. It will most likely be crowded at the more popular areas but nothing like the front range or Smith and there are always other options and less known walls and crags with no one else around so explore and enjoy your trip.

Thanks,
Mike Snyder

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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