I cannot find any info on approaching the 'lower saddle' from somewhere along the south fork from the northwest. I assume you could go up valhalla canyon and reverse the valhalla traverse. Any other alternatives?
I've done the grand several times IAD and looking to get creative with different loops. I should also say that I want to keep it ropeless so no north ridge shenanigans.
Never been up that way myself but the Ortenburger guide has some beta. Page 54 (3rd ed): "The S fork of Cascade Canyon and Dartmouth Basin also offers climbers an interesting alternative to the customary Garnet Canyon approach to the Lower Saddle. About 1 mile S of the forks of the canyon, leave the trail... turn L (E) up the ravine leading toward Dartmouth Basin, which lies immediately W of the Lower Saddle... The W side of the Lower Saddle is protected by cliffs containing loose rock... not recommended for either ascent or descent. The preferable route goes to the L (NE) up a long, easy couloir that passes through the Black Dike and leads to the slopes N of the Lower Saddle".
Via Cascade Canyon and Dartmouth Basin is the most common uncommon approach. I have reached the the Lower Saddle via Valhalla Canyon and the Valhalla Traverse and via Valhalla Canyon and the BIC. I have even reached it from the south after down climbing the NE Col on Middle.
Parts of the Valhalla Traverse are pretty dicey in places. Lots very loose rock and it can be icy. While it can be done rope less I think when did it in reverse we broke out the rope.
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