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Routes in Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
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- V-easy 3 |
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Ain't No Puppy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Dogs Variation T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Ramp T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Deodorant T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Independent Worm Saloon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pandemic, The V4 6B PG13 |
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Rat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rat Crack Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Revocation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Skin Tollbooth, The V8+ 7B+ |
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Sweatin' to the Oldies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Turd Burglar V6 7A |
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Walking on Paper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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White Shores T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | M. Frichette & Partner (?) 1970s (?) |
| Page Views: | 1,133 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
The route was pretty good and contained some great climbing, but it also had some flakey rock and insecure moves and lichen. It gets 1 star for now, but it might clean up to two.
Approach as for 'Revocation.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left, the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.
Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).
You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.
Approach as for 'Revocation.' From the trail, walk out and left on the ledge, which is flat, but as you go left, the ground falls away below... the ledge ends at a pair of corners, 'Revocation' is the cleaner corner on the right, and 'Ain't No Puppy' is the wider line on the right with the remnants of a bush in it. Set a belay of a large stopper and a 1st-knuckle sized cam on the end of the ledge at the corner.
Climb up into the left corner, (5.9-) past some awkward moves- these might get more secyure if the crack becmes cleaner. Continue up to a wide section of crack in a corner (5.8) and into the great jams in the bulge above (5.9).
You will arrive at a bolt and link belay. Rap 95' to the starting ledge, or 115' (70m rope) to the ground.
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