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Routes in Southern Pillar - East Side
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(VAR) Indirect Start to FFTMC T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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BEVOS T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Craving for Pink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Far From The Maddening Crowd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Fragmatist, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free Ballin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Great Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Hidden Gem T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Initiation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Loosey Goosey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mrs. Robinson T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rowdy Goose, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southern Thriller S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Where The Wild Goose Goes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Window on the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Markwell/John Christian (1971) |
| Page Views: | 1,152 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Malone on Jun 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
This climb ascends the taller eastern (left) buttress (fin) as opposed to the western buttress (fin) which is the last pitch of the Gephardt-Dufty. Scramble up to a ledge on the buttress that lies to the left of the Great Chimney route, or climb the first three pitches of Gephardt-Dufty and do some easy bushwhacking pitch to connect to the base of the eastern buttress. This latter method is really where the decent climbing is; the rest is highly vegetated and poor quality rock.
#1. Climb the narrow (less than 10 feet) north face to a ledge near the top. (140 ft.) Initial climbing is on very clean, light color, rock with almost no lichen. Belay on a ledge on a west (climbers right) wall.
#2. Climb up to a large ledge on top of the buttress (30 ft.). Parts of this section was covered by thick layer of lichen.
Staying left on the 2nd pitch is also an option and is about 5.6 R on decent rock.
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