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Wrath of the Talus Monster
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Pandora
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A Skxawng's Line T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Crack In The Space Time Fabric T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Shadow You Will Ever See, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straighten Up and Fly Right T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Talus Knirschen S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wrath of the Talus Monster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wrinkle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | A. Mollard, R. Suggett, 7/2015 |
| Page Views: | 852 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Aug 2, 2015 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Start by a patch of thorny shrubbery with easy moves on positive edges to gain the first bolt (a #2 would keep you off the deck if the unthinkable happened before clipping). Continue pulling big moves on small incuts, eventually hitting the arête below a blank patch of the face. Escape left around the corner to a finger crack and tiptoe up a slightly hollow flake using finger-size pieces for pro (make sure to use long runners) until you can reach the apex of the arête. Shuffle right below the roof on non-existent feet, aiming for a last bolt which appears completely off route to the right (rock quality dictated this placement). Pull a thuggy move to get above the roof and wander to the anchor via a wide hand crack.
A harder variation shoots straight up the face between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, avoiding the arête via a tricky sequence of hard moves on really small crimps. It meets up with the original line at the top of the arête and feels about 11c/+.
(edit: the direct line was done on lead and apparently goes at 11b. Guess I can't climb. I still feel that avoiding the arête may keep the grade at 11+)
A harder variation shoots straight up the face between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, avoiding the arête via a tricky sequence of hard moves on really small crimps. It meets up with the original line at the top of the arête and feels about 11c/+.
(edit: the direct line was done on lead and apparently goes at 11b. Guess I can't climb. I still feel that avoiding the arête may keep the grade at 11+)
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