Mountain Project Logo

Alpine climbing rope question

Original Post
jsanders · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 195

I was recently looking for a short half rope for alpine climbing (mainly protection on sketchy scrambling sections and short raps). Bought a 50m, 8.1mm half rope at a good deal with plans on cutting it. Question: would I be better cutting it into a 30 m and a 20 m, or two 25m?
I have other single ropes for climbing so I doubt I would ever use two halfs for fifth class.

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385
old guy wrote: Question: would I be better cutting it into a 30 m and a 20 m, or two 25m?
I'm no expert at alpine climbing, but I would think there has to be a possible compromise between fast and light and having the extra gear you are using be useful and not a hindrance.

You may need that rope for another use: to rappel on, lead with, cut up for rappel sling, etc. so keeping it long may be beneficial, but you also want to be light too and have something that can possibly function in a dual capacity. You already have a rope to climb on, so tying in short with that rope could do the trick without you having to bring more gear than needed.

If you are not worried about weight issues, bulky packs, and extra gear I would leave it long.
Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 903

do you plan to climb alone and does it involve any glacier travel?

In general 30m is used as a short rope for ski mountaineering to do short rappels, when dealing with suspect cornices or belaying someone doing an avalanche pit.

My general inclination however would be not to cut, given that the weight penalty of 50m is not so much.

jsanders · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 195

I do not plan to climb alone and doubtful to the question on involving glacier travel. The rope would function more as a 'security blanket.' Used to do a short rappel instead of down climbing a questionable section, and maybe to protect a short section of exposed class 3 or 4 that some party members may be uncomfortable with.

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

I hardly ever bring my short half rope out for ski mountaineering or alpine climbing. It just has far less uses than my Mammut Serenity 8.7 single rope and is just a little bit larger in my pack than the cut down half rope. Typically any rap I am doing will be set up for a real rope not some 25m chunk and being able to lead on it is nice if needed. I would leave it at 50m. Where specifically will you be using this rope?

outdoorcrazy · · Reno, Nv · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 0

I wouldn't cut it at all. Sounds like a perfect alpine rope already to me.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188
outdoorcrazy wrote:I wouldn't cut it at all. Sounds like a perfect alpine rope already to me.
+1
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Alpine climbing rope question"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started