All Locations > Massachusetts > Eastern, MA > Hammond Pond > Alcove Area

Main Alcove Wall Bouldering

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Alcove Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Breakfast of Champions T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3-4 6A+ PG13
	Crackle V2 5+
	Crispy V1 5
	Hammond Eggs V4 6B
	High Traverse V5 6C
	Kellogg's T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3- 6A
	Low Traverse V3 6A
	On the Box V5 6C
	Over Easy V2 5+
	Pop V2 5+
	Scrambled V-easy 3
	Sit On That V0+ 4+
	Warm Up Traverse V0+ 4+

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Elevation:	25 ft
GPS:	42.32285, -71.17406 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This tiny bouldering area is probably fairly famous among New England climbers. Within this bit of rock are some quality moderates. Dont let the moderate grades fool you. One famous climber broke his back here failing on the top out of a problem here. This is probably the most overhanging rock at Hammond Pond. Here's a nice shot from the MIT photo contest.

L->R (from the old days - a new list is in the making...):
A1. Low Traverse, V3-4, 25', boulder.
A2. OJ aka Scrambled, 5.
B. Over Easy, 8 or V2.
C. Overalls, 9.
D. Hammond Eggs, 12 or V3.
E1. Traverse Left, 6.
E2. Breakfast of Champions, 11 (now called V3).
F1. Snap, 10.
F2. Crack, 9.
G1. Kellog's, 10.
G2. variation, 10.
H1. Pop Left, 8+.
H2. Pop, 8+ or V0+.
I. Crispy, V1, 15'.
J1.High Traverse aka Warm-Up Traverse, 8+.
J2. Low Traverse, 11+.
J3. Thank God Traverse, V1.

Right Wall
J. Easy Traverse, 7 or 10.
K. left, 7.
L. middle, 4.
M. right, 8.

Upper Entrance Wall
A. left 9.
B. left center, 9.
C. right center, 8+.
D. right, 8+.

Beached Whale Boulder
A. Mantel, 8.

Beached Whale. V6/7 upper left photo

In the old days, folks bouldered here without pads. As a result, at least one well-known climber wound up with a broken back. Watch the landings if you are ropeless.

Getting There

At least in the old days, this is how we got there: this lies next west of Hammond Pond and is west of the Upper Walls. It is probably best to park close to the south side of Hammond Pond. From the parking south of Hammond Pond, take the dirt road and go left at the first fork. Continue to the next fork and near this fork, head almost straight west.

Alternatively, per Eric Ziemba: from parking lot; cross the gate, and take trail immediately to your left and up the small hill. Go through the gap between rocks, and you're there. Many holds are well chalked, it will be obvious that you've arrived.

Or, follow directions laid out in Alcove Entrance Boulder, and squeeze through the gap.

Updated List of Problems

The above list has been described as outdated.

Hence, Chris will edit in an updated list here.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Alcove Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V-easy 3 47 ● Scrambled Boulder
V0+ 4+ 16 ● Sit On That Boulder
V1 5 27 ● Crispy Boulder
V2 5+ 54 ● Over Easy Boulder
V3 6A 16 ● Low Traverse Boulder
V4 6B 54 ● Hammond Eggs Boulder
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V3- 6A 19 ● Kellogg's Trad, TR, Boulder
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V3-4 6A+ PG13 39 ● Breakfast of Champions Trad, TR, Boulder