Is there a Prescott climbing community?

Am I missing something?

I admit to being totally out of the loop as far as climbing goes these days but after living in the Prescott area for over 10 years I've never been able to get a feel for any real climbing community. I have all but given up climbing due to problems finding reliable, safe, available or compatible partners. Prescott College seems to have the best community but it has pretty high turnover and most of the PC students I run into are relatively new to climbing and living on a different planet. I know there are some good climbers around town but it seems fairly cliquish. I heard Tony Yaniro lives here. (look him up kids)

Granted, I am a 50 something old guy with a real job and a family so I have less free time than many younger folks and am a bit picky about who I climb with. I mean if I'm going to take a day away from the family to go climbing I'd like to know my partner will actually show up, hopefully not too hungover or stoned, and will not try to kill me. I've experienced all of those issues in a few attempts at meeting new partners.

I've spent the last several years riding and racing mountain bikes just because we have such a great community here and it is something my family enjoys but climbing is my first love and I'd like to get out more often.

Are there many locals heading up to the Mountain these days? I'd love to go back to some of the easy routes I first did 30+ years ago. Where do Prescott locals climb mostly? I've not climbed a lot in the last few years but when I have I rarely see anybody else.

It seems that there has to be a better and bigger climbing community here than I know of.

Chris

Chris,

I'm just going to say it...nope. I feel there really is no community or connection between the various groups of climbers that roam the Prescott crags. I try to avoid using the word "cliques," but honestly that's the best way to describe what's happened. I've personally been apart of many of these groups at one point or another in the last several years. A lot of times it was a short-lived experience. I even went so far as to try and get PC and ERAU climbers together with fellow regular Prescott locals through various events. For whatever reason these never turned up successful.

You hit the nail right on the head though in terms of the struggles to find a consistent climbing partner that won't leave you hanging, come blazed out of their mind, or still drunk from the night before. It's hilarious in a sad way, and I too have turned more to cruising the trails on my MTB. I definitely hear you on every aspect of what you just said and I really recognized this "issue" about a year ago. I say "issue" because if you are in one of the cliques then you don't see any issue and don't see any reason to resolve it. The unfortunate reality is that there needs to be a community to support the areas that we all climb in. For instance, there may be a potential access issue in the next year for Sullivan's Canyon, but hardly anyone knows that because there is no communication between various climbing groups. The social dynamic of the climbing "community" around Prescott is just ridiculous quite frankly.

Hope this thread turns into something constructive for the Prescott locals and maybe find some individuals to help pull the Prescott Climbers Coalition back together.

Cheers,
Mac

Mac,

Thanks for the reply. I guess it makes me feel a little better knowing I'm not the only one that noticed. But maybe we both just aren't cool enough to be in inner circle. I know I'm not.

I also agree 100% that having a community is important to preserving access. It still pisses me off that Granite Mountain and Thumb Butte are completely closed half the year for peregrines that "might" be nesting. What's worse is that nobody seems to care. If there were enough climbers pressuring the forest service we might be able to get a shorter closure or a partial closure like they do on El Cap. The forest biologist basically said she will never lift the closure but if pressed she would have to prove a need for it. We can't expect help from the Access Fund because they are more concerned about raising money than actually gaining or preserving climbing access. They have often just negotiated away access. I used to be a supporter but they have gone the way of Greenpeace. They basically raise money to keep the AF going.

At one time there was a Prescott Climbers Coalition that seemed to be heading the right direction on access to Sullivans but I think the rapid turnover at PC made it hard to sustain.

Maybe when Kevin finishes his guide book there will be more interest in climbing around here.

I wish I had more time to climb and contribute to the community myself and I probably could and would if it didn't seem so hopeless. In the meantime I'm going to try to get my old ass in some kind of shape so I don't totally embarrass myself. Hopefully I can make enough connections to make it possible and worthwhile. I've tested out a rope soloing set up recently but climbing is way more fun with a partner.

What is the potential access problem with Sully's?

Scott Mc

I've been back in the Prescott area for about two years now and have been lucky enough to find a handful of really solid partners. But right when I moved back I ran into the same problems trying to find a partner. Hungover, late, clueless, unreliable ect... I'm in the same boat as you (CJD), I've got a 9 month old daughter and a full time job, so I really appreciate someone who is reliable, shows up on time, and is really just ready to get after it.
We may not have much of a "community" but there are certainly folks out there with the same values and looking for the same things. Try not to get too discouraged.
As far as access/route development goes, I'd love to get involved so If either of you can figure out how I would appreciate a pm. I gave my number to a local access fund "rep?" I think his name was Keven, and I never heard from him. I'm sure he's got a full plate and its not my intention to burn the guy, I honestly just don't know how to approach the whole thing.

Glad I'm not the only one who experiences these problems. My luck has been about 50/50. The only success I've had is when you personally know them.

The last time I talked to Kevin Keith he seemed very motivated to gather together several climbers to start back the Prescott Climbers' Coalition to help get things moving in terms of land access. It was also at this time he notified me that the current owner of part of Sullivan's has decided to sell the land. It is in the best interest of the climbing community to aid in the acquisition of this part so access does not become restricted nor closed entirely for climbers.

We talked over 6mo. ago and many things may have changed since then. Personally I haven't been able to stay completely current with it all because of limited communication and presence in Prescott over this amount of time, especially over the summer months. It is funny to me that every time I talk to a climber around Prescott they all feel it would be nice, and usually agree it would be beneficial if Prescott had a Coalition. However, no one has noticeably stepped up to the plate to do so yet. Whoever decides to take on this roll of coordinating all of this has a pretty steep climb ahead of them, but I'm sure everyone in Prescott would greatly appreciate their hard work.

From the responses above it almost sounds like we need a Prescott Climbing Club at least. This would easily replace the lack of a climbing gym that we have to all congregate at on a weekly basis to get to know everyone.

Also, I'm not going to get in the middle of anyone's opinions on The Access Fund, but if they end up working in our favor I'm game for their support. If anyone is interested in getting the ball rolling on all of the necessary things to get the coalition back in order shoot me a PM and I'll get in touch with Kevin to meet up and give us all a summary of necessary paperwork, contacts, and what needs to happen next.

Cheers,
Mac

Glad to hear there are still some climbers in Prescott. Forming a coalition would be a great help in impacting arbitrary decisions, like the one CJD mentioned, the bird closure on Granite Mtn.

I do know that the Access Fund and the Concerned Climbers of AZ are in communication with the PNF about the closure. Nothing has changed. But we do have more information as to why than we did before.

Like most things, it takes time. Nothing was done for the past several years but I hope that changes soon.

Sounds like a perfect Senior project.

Speaking of climbing gym, did any of you take the survey last year? I know I wrote him a lengthy email detailing the culture and demographics in the area. Haven't heard from him since. Maybe he decided not to do it after all. Shame, wanted to work there.

Excellent topic! There hasn't been a Prescott Climbers Coalition meeting in some time. I hope to see you all at the next meeting at the Hike Shack on Montezuma St in downtown Prescott at 7pm on January 7th. Stay tuned to MP and our regional thread for more info. Please feel free to contact me.

Hi Chris,
catching me browsing mtnpro again, I think mostly nostalgic now. Like you, accomplished my best climbs years ago 1998-2005,age +50.
Really enjoyed Prescott, and now mtnbike solo a lot. Only a few ticklists left, but I don't train to climb any more. friend referrals seem best.
going to diet and exercise now.... catch you soon.
Chris M, Phoenix and Tahoe

I am moving to Prescott next week and looking for partners... Any takers?

Hey Eric,

Check out the AZ Partners section and there have been a few individuals posting on there that are new and coming into Prescott this fall/ just arrived. I am unfortunately VERY busy until September, so I would not be a good partner to have right now. Haha

I will also mirror myself on previous posts in regards to the Prescott Climbers Coalition and Prescott Climbing Scene:

Most communication is done through Facebook groups/pages such as:

"Prescott Climbers Coalition"
facebook.com/prescottclimbe…

"Prescott Climbing Scene"
facebook.com/groups/8019957…

Since we lack a climbing gym and the community is fairly small, these avenues are usually your best bet besides just heading out to the main crags.

Cheers,
Mac

EDIT: Just recognized the full links did not copy over, that has been fixed.

Eric Rydzo wrote:I am moving to Prescott next week and looking for partners... Any takers?

I just moved to Prescott a couple weeks ago and have been exploring the local spots. Feel free to PM me for my info.

On another note...I would really love to be involved with the coalition but it seems like mostly a Facebook thing? Is there any way I can contribute without having a facebook? Are there meetings? Willing to do anything to contribute to the community. Even grunt work.

When the group is more active you will find notices on MP such as this one: mountainproject.com/v/presc…

Has anything changed for the better in the two years since this discussion? 

I've looked at Prescott as a possible place to move the family for awhile now, but reading this and other descriptions of the scene (or lack thereof) gives me doubts about the area as a place to find psyched/consistent partners.

MClay wrote:

Has anything changed for the better in the two years since this discussion? 

I've looked at Prescott as a possible place to move the family for awhile now, but reading this and other descriptions of the scene (or lack thereof) gives me doubts about the area as a place to find psyched/consistent partners.

I've only lived in Prescott for a month but have had decent success finding climbing partners. The Prescott Climber's Coalition has been doing climbing meetups at Groom Creek and the Dells. I haven't been to one personally yet but I'm sure it'd be a great way to meet psyched partners. Also just post on either of the two Prescott Climbing Facebook pages. There's also been a few threads here on MP about people looking for partners in Prescott. If you're persistent you'll be able to find good people. 

Y’all should come to the opening party at the Gripstone climbing gym July 20th 2018. Might find some partners since y’all were having a hard time. Hope the current scene has been treating you all better since those past posts complaining about the lame climbing scene.