Gumby Trad Partner Question

Hello all,
I have very limited trad/multipitch experience and have only really extensively done single-pitch sport. However I'd really like to climb in some areas I'll be travelling to soon. For those who do this style of climbing, what would the likelihood be that you'd take someone to climb who's never done either of these if they were willing to belay and follow? Is this a good way to learn/find partners?

This is a great way to learn. Most trad climbers start out by finding a climbing partner/mentor willing to show them the complexities of trad climbing. Most will follow climbs, studying gear placements, removing gear and getting comfortable with it before they lead their first trad climb. The first trad lead is usually well below the climber's abilities so they can focus on placing gear correctly. If you can belay and willing to learn you should have no problem finding a partner.

So if I roll into a climbing area and look for partners/post on the internet with the pretext of willing to belay/follow it should be easy to find partners?

It will be easier to find partners if it is only single-pitch trad climbing.

I'd be reluctant, but if you're up front and realistic and don't try to puff yourself up, I might consider it. Also, look up the second date thread

- how hard sport do you climb outdoors

- are you an absolutely rock solid lead belayer who has caught whippers repeatedly

- are you willing to pay for gas, food and beer ... and any gear that might get stuck or dropped

- are you of sound mind and have practiced the basic techniques, knots, skills and safety

- are you a "giver upper" after a few pitches, or are you willing to climb till your absolutely and utterly beat ... do you whine after a few hard moves or do you keep at it

- are you willing to learn, or do you watch a few youtube videos, read some MP posts ... then run around the crag screaming about how everyone using dyneema will die

- are you V HAWT (guy or girl whatever the "mentors" preference)

the above factors will determine whether someone will take a single pitch bolt clipping weenie under their wing and show em the dark forbidden secrets of placing large nuts in tight cracks

personally if the above criteria are met i PREFER bolt clippers who can climb hard ... at least i know they can pull through any move this phat old AZN can make ... and they have the endurance to last

all other things being equal its much easier to teach a 5,11+ sport climber basic trad and multi skills ... than it is to teach a "technically knowledgeable" and "experienced" 5.8 tradster to climb hard

;)

Just show up with beer and I know a dozen guys who will climb with you.

Are you a woman? If so, then you'll have no problem finding mentors.

Are you a man? If so, then get ready to spend hundreds of dollars on hiring a professional guide.

Well i took at trip out to yosemite and ended up taking a guy I knew from the gym who had only top roped one time outside. We got to yosemite after midnight and started hiking up to snake dike 4 hours later for his first multipitch (with a touch of trad).

Ideally I would prefer someone who could also lead trad (or well could lead at all) but hey I will go climb with most anyone I know that is able to belay. Last day of the trip I ended up leading the entire royal arch climb 1500ft, I am not sure why but I did it with our second rope for rappelling the entire way. Probably should have let my partner carry the rope but it was good extra weight training.

As long as you know how to belay and can follow instructions well I don't have a problem climbing with random people. If we go out and I start seeing you do stuff that I find dangerous and won't listen than the day will probably end early.

Back when I had plenty of time to spare for climbing and did so all the time, I would climb with just about anyone at least once if they fit into my schedule, as I could always use extra partners and I enjoy teaching and sharing the experience. I often did this with non-climbing friends/coworkers or gym acquaintances/MP Users. I would always start off on a very easy route that i was very comfortable on to teach/introduce the person and assess their abilities. But nowadays I rarely get outside, so when I get outside trad climbing, I'm on a mission and want a partner who is competent and fast so I can get the most out of the day.

There are plenty of people who fall into that first category. However, i would try and make contact with and organize something ahead of time rather than "rolling in" to an area without any contacts. Those who are already out at a cliff probably have a game plan and partner for the day already.

That's the way I learned and I have taught few people now. It usually includes lots of belaying a lot and seconding routes without leading at all. Few sessions later, you will feel okay to lead easy and well protected routes.

I like teaching someone else as you can keep leading all day. Coincidentally, I was teaching someone couple times a week for a month or so. Didn't belay once on like 20+ pitches.