Mountain Project Logo

Josh Wharton - Black Canyon - NO HELMET

John McNamee · · Littleton, CO · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,690

Wearing a helmet is just a personal choice. It's that simple. Some people will and some people won't.

I tend to wear one most of the time. I don't even notice I'm wearing it. It's light and has plenty of ventilation. It also allows me to use the da brim with it on hot days.

BITD in the helicopter skiing industry (Canada) when people started to wear helmets we noticed an uptick in body impact injuries. People were starting to just go a little too fast and close to the trees. I don't know if this trend continued as I retired shortly afterwards. Just too many helicopter crashes for this cookie.

I wouldn't think about skiing on a crowded day at Vail without wearing a helmet, but if I'm playing hooky from work midweek and I'm by myself in the backbowls, then I'll just be wearing my favorite toque. Sometimes different situations calls for a different approach.

Alexey Dynkin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
John McNamee wrote:Wearing a helmet is just a personal choice. It's that simple. Some people will and some people won't. I tend to wear one most of the time. I don't even notice I'm wearing it. It's light and has plenty of ventilation. It also allows me to use the da brim with it on hot days. BITD in the helicopter skiing industry (Canada) when people started to wear helmets we noticed an uptick in body impact injuries. People were starting to just go a little too fast and close to the trees. I don't know if this trend continued as I retired shortly afterwards. Just too many helicopter crashes for this cookie. I wouldn't think about skiing on a crowded day at Vail without wearing a helmet, but if I'm playing hooky from work midweek and I'm by myself in the backbowls, then I'll just be wearing my favorite toque. Sometimes different situations calls for a different approach.
Pretty much sums it up. I think this one's been about beaten to death...
climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Matt N wrote:What are the cons of wearing a helmet? 1. You don't look as "cool" in your photos. ... and that's it. They are made super lightweight now and with plenty of ventilation that you never realize you're wearing them, so don't argue weight or heat. I guess you can try to relate it to running it out when not necessary. Saying that the climber is weighing the risk, etc for their own situation. But I always come back to the one con of wearing a helmet. Anytime I'm leading or on multi, mine is on. They're also useful during dusk/dark descents, when you walk into tree branches. Or those times you head butt a roof. etc Many pros, only one con (for me). Its also polite that as a belayer you have one on, so if you get hit by a little rock or a dropped biner, etc, its only a nuisance and not a "OMG my belayer just got knocked out" situation.
There are definitely situation when climbing OW and squeezes that you literally cannot wear a helmet cause it will get stuck.
Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188
JPVallone wrote:I don't wear a helmet when I ski, Mostly because helmets are just plain dangerous. If you don't believe me then look at what happened when I did some testing. I used a rock about 1 kilo in size, maybe the size of a softball and I dropped it from a height of 10 meters directly onto 10 different helmets. I used the same height and rock to control the variables in my tests. All 10 helmets cracked on impact and were damaged every time. Most of them couldn't be used again and needed to be retired. I decided to try the same tests with 10 different hats. Baseball caps and regular knit ski hats. I used the same rock on the hats that I used on the helmets and dropped from the same height. Unbelievable, but none of the hats were damaged, cracked, or even scratched for that matter. I was blown away, but from now on I only ski with hats. I have never scratched a hat either, and they are much cheaper then helmets. Just curious, Is Josh a Cliff Bar athlete? I hope not, I heard Cliff bar was going to drop all of it's athletes that don't wear helmets when climbing. ;-)
Hahahahahaha what in the world
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
reboot wrote: That would be a very irresponsible thing to do & BD should get the wrath of every climber if that was true. I doubt that's what it is though. More than likely, it was a personal choice, which may lean against wearing a helmet when being filmed. (Notice the belayer at least had a helmet in some of the shots). On the other hand, when you are a pro athlete, especially when marketing to the participants (instead of the spectators), I don't think it's unreasonable to ask for a measure of social responsibility. Whether helmet is truly warranted or not, the appearance of safety precaution should be taken when being filmed.
I haven't fully thought this through, but part of me would much rather see BD encouraging risk taking and adventure in climbing.
CTB · · Cave Creek, AZ · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 305

Replying to the OP 2-ton comment

After watching the video (which does not sound like anyone did),,,,, I would imagine a TWO-TON block would have a lot more kinetic energy to open a human head up, than the 400 lb. block that Josh WhartevertheF said he managed to swing out of the way from.

However I am pretty confidant that if either sized block struck your head from above, the outcome would be roughly the same. Even energy absorption materials that helmets may be made with in the NEAR FUTURE, are not going to handle that kind of force. Given that scenario, helmet or not, just consider yourself an ORGAN DONOR<3. That is if your rope does not get cut and you spill your hot-commodity on the talus below!!!!

Regarding all other Helmet uses...

Helmets are still good for the 1,000,001 other types of head trauma that can happen while climbing. Ive cracked open enough helmets engaging in other activities to have learned that they are something I hate to live with, but COULD NOT live without!!! Ive retired many helmets from head bangin crashes snowboarding, skateboarding, hockey, roadbiking, from stuff I cant remember, but most accounted for is jumpin dirtbikes. As for climbing accidents, I havent really got to use my helmet for falling blocks or whippers or meteors,,,, YET!!!! O:-)

I wear a helmet on every climb and I don't entertain any ideas or excuses not to. Also I live in Phoenix and climb outside here year-round. Yes Helmets suck, especially in the HEAT, and most especially if you already have a huge head like me and particularly love OW.

I figure if you GET to climb long enough, like the raw-doggin assclown from the video (Josh Wharton), gravity is going serve you up a few killer surprises. I feel that when those moments happen, its better to be prepared for the unforeseen with a helmet than thinking you can pull off some impromptu Jackie Chan moves....Unless you gota camera rollin,,,, then go right a HEAD.

PS: Almost seemed to me ironic that Josh Whartons head scar and block story were told while holding and playing with his kid on his lap. I can se that re-edited into a great PSA teaching kids the consequences of not wearing a domepeice at the crag and at home!!!!! { ;-)

Bill M · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 317

A climbing partner of mine had a very large block pulled off a belay ledge onnher while seconding. She was 30 or so feet up the first pitch when it happened and under a slight bulge so the block hit well have here and shattered but not before chopping her rope. She said smaller debris rained down in here as she felt the rope go slack. I am sure she is glad she was wearing a helmet as I am sure it helped her keep her composure.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Bill M wrote:A climbing partner of mine had a very large block pulled off a belay ledge onnher while seconding. She was 30 or so feet up the first pitch when it happened and under a slight bulge so the block hit well have here and shattered but not before chopping her rope. She said smaller debris rained down in here as she felt the rope go slack. I am sure she is glad she was wearing a helmet as I am sure it helped her keep her composure.
good for her
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
Greg Petliski wrote: All true, but none discredits the actual safety device. It just shows that human behavior is often most at fault. If one were to acquire safety devices but maintain the mindframe of not having those safety devices, you'd be much better off than not having them, no?
Absolutely. I surely wouldn't suggest that anyone avoid the cross walk, just like helmets and airbags. You are safer with them by far. Avoiding that state of mind is what I was getting at.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Ammo for both sides. Horrible things can happen so wear a helmet or this guys is ok and he wasn't wearing a helmet.

To or not to.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Tim Lutz wrote: uh... ok, so you are immune to rockfall? glad my nearing dying that day gives you some good quotable ammunition are Boooooldurites heads so swollen with awesomeness that they don't need helmets?
Nope. But see, people are going to tease you about being hit in the head a lot.

Tim Lutz wrote: I have hit trees and ice hard with my head several times. If a rock hits your head hard you will be disoriented, maybe spinning in the air as I was...
Maybe that's why you misunderstood my post?

Get what I meant now?
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Mark E Dixon wrote: I haven't fully thought this through, but part of me would much rather see BD encouraging risk taking and adventure in climbing.
I'm not disagreeing w/ your sentiment, but I'd prefer to see professional films also demonstrate proper risk mitigation in adventure climbing (instead of GoPro footages of people doing stupid things and didn't get hurt too badly). I'm not say that's necessarily not the case here (though, w/o additional context, going helmet-less in The Black is questionable, especially when there was a large rock fall in video, rendering the whole chossiness debate somewhat moot).

If the film is obviously showing a stunt (like slacklining w/ the leash tied to your balls), that's one thing, but if it's meant (in part) to inspire the audience to take on adventures themselves, that's quite another.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
reboot wrote: I'm not disagreeing w/ your sentiment, but I'd prefer to see professional films also demonstrate proper risk mitigation in adventure climbing (instead of GoPro footages of people doing stupid
Condom only porn?
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
reboot wrote: if it's meant (in part) to inspire the audience to take on adventures themselves, that's quite another.
But wouldn't it be different if they were trying to inspire experienced folks, not just impressionable neophytes and non-climbers.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
Tim Lutz wrote:Nope. I can take a joke at my own expense. But people I know can tell jokes, not whatever it is you are trying to do.
Sigh... not surprised. Have someone explain it to you.
JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

This is why you were helmets

youtube.com/watch?v=dONyv-C…

Tom Sherman · · Austin, TX · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 433

Wow 5 pages, what a typical circle jerk, and yet why did I read through? The only thing interesting I found:

I wear a helmet every time I MTB
I never wear a helmet on my roadbike or BMX

^^is that cultural or rational or personal?

I wear a helmet every time I climb, and am very aware if removing it standing at base.

Now here is some food for thought, RI created a statewide initiative to create 'flagging stations', little buckets strapped to poles along major crosswalks in the state. I mean if the fact that a human being is standing in front of your vehicle, in a crosswalk, can't get the drivers' attention, surely he/she waving a flag should help. We also pay a second employee for each school bus in addition to the driver, this person is to get on/off at each stop to verify students aren't lying under the wheels of the bus. Dumbest state in the union achievement award?

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
CTB wrote:Replying to the OP 2-ton comment After watching the video (which does not sound like anyone did),,,,, I would imagine a TWO-TON block would have a lot more kinetic energy to open a human head up, than the 400 lb. block that Josh WhartevertheF said he managed to swing out of the way from. However I am pretty confidant that if either sized block struck your head from above, the outcome would be roughly the same. Even energy absorption materials that helmets may be made with in the NEAR FUTURE, are not going to handle that kind of force. Given that scenario, helmet or not, just consider yourself an ORGAN DONOR<3. That is if your rope does not get cut and you spill your hot-commodity on the talus below!!!! Regarding all other Helmet uses... Helmets are still good for the 1,000,001 other types of head trauma that can happen while climbing. Ive cracked open enough helmets engaging in other activities to have learned that they are something I hate to live with, but COULD NOT live without!!! Ive retired many helmets from head bangin crashes snowboarding, skateboarding, hockey, roadbiking, from stuff I cant remember, but most accounted for is jumpin dirtbikes. As for climbing accidents, I havent really got to use my helmet for falling blocks or whippers or meteors,,,, YET!!!! O:-) I wear a helmet on every climb and I don't entertain any ideas or excuses not to. Also I live in Phoenix and climb outside here year-round. Yes Helmets suck, especially in the HEAT, and most especially if you already have a huge head like me and particularly love OW. I figure if you GET to climb long enough, like the raw-doggin assclown from the video (Josh Wharton), gravity is going serve you up a few killer surprises. I feel that when those moments happen, its better to be prepared for the unforeseen with a helmet than thinking you can pull off some impromptu Jackie Chan moves....Unless you gota camera rollin,,,, then go right a HEAD. PS: Almost seemed to me ironic that Josh Whartons head scar and block story were told while holding and playing with his kid on his lap. I can se that re-edited into a great PSA teaching kids the consequences of not wearing a domepeice at the crag and at home!!!!! { ;-)
I wear a helmet most of the time when i cycle or snowboard as well, but generally don't wear one climbing except for multipitch or in certain chossy crags. The majority of climbing helmets only protect from rock fall and provide little to no protection from side impacts. Thinking that they will help for the 1,000,001 other types of head trauma is foolhardy at best.
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
JPVallone wrote:This is why you were helmets youtube.com/watch?v=dONyv-C…
F-ing AWESOME!!!!
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860
Tom Sherman wrote: Dumbest state in the union achievement award?
I would direct you to see New Jersey and Oregon. Where you can not pump your own auto fuel. Maybe not worse, but it's in the same ballpark.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
Post a Reply to "Josh Wharton - Black Canyon - NO HELMET"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.