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Devils Lake Climbs by Style...

Original Post
CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

Just wanted to throw together a quick list of worthwhile climbs at the Lake by "style" below 5.12 (so for us mere mortals). I apologize if this is already a thread as I was not able to find anything (if you know of one, let me know and I will move this to that thread).

I understand that there is a lot of grey in these categories as nothing at devils lake is consistently one style, but any additions would be appreciated (esp in the offwidth area)...

Crack:
Brentons Crack (5.6 - hardly a crack IMHO)
Curving Crack (5.8)
Upper Diag (5.9)
Congratulations (5.10a)
Sometimes Crack (5.10a)
Cheatah (5.10b)

Offwidth/Squeeze Chim:
Impossible Crack (5.8)
The V (5.10d)

Face/Slab:
Brothers (5.7)
Wessners Face (5.7)
Green Bulge (5.7)
Queens Face (5.8)
Stretcher (5.9)
Mammalary Magic (5.10a)
Alpha C (5.10d)

Mike Robinson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 251

I'm not really into offwidths so I didn't have much to add there...

Cracks:

The Spine (5.4)
Queen's Throne (5.4)
Angel's Crack (5.6)
Coatimundi Crack (5.6)
The Great Crack (5.6)
The Rack (5.7)
Peter's Project (5.7)
Michael's Project (5.**)
Dippy Diagonal (5.7)
False Alarm Jam (5.7)
Lost Face Finger Crack (5.7)
Rogers Roof (5.8)
Birch Tree (5.8)
Breakfast of Champions (5.9)
Hammer Crack (5.9)
Callipigeanous Crack (5.10a)
Gills Crack (5.10c)

I'm sure there are some others to add...

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

No grade on Michael's Proj?!?

Mike Robinson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 251
jon jugenheimer wrote:No grade on Michael's Proj?!?
You jumped on that.
Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

There's an unnamed 5.6 OW near coup d'état and SOGC with a bunch of chockstones that is a good lead with just double length slings and some biners. It's that perfect chicken-wing/just-barely-fit-your-torso size.

Nathan Sward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 145

This is great!

Quality overhangs:

Lost Face Overhang I & II (5.8)
Orgasm (5.8)
Double Overhang (5.4)

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:No grade on Michael's Proj?!?
5.8 isn't it?

Cracks:
Lost face 5.7
Wobbly Dihedral 5.9
Rogers Roof 5.8 (the upper half at least for cracks
Curving Crack 5.8
American Beauty Crack 5.8
Lechery 5.8

Offwidth
The Plank 5.8
Impossible Crack 5.8 (if only it was about 30 feet longer.)
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack.
Am I thinking of the wrong route? The big wide crack that goes under that roof in the amphitheater. That crack is pretty damn wide to me. I thought that was the plank was committing to that big wide crack.
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:The Plank isn't offwidth. Its a face climb to a slightly scary right face traverse with no gear to a crack.
Am I thinking of the wrong route? The big wide crack that goes under that roof in the amphitheater. That crack is pretty damn wide to me. I thought that was the plank was committing to that big wide crack.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Ah, you are talking about that 5.6 (?) wide crack, nope, The Plank heads out right...get on it next time you are there and "Walk the Plank"...you will get the name then. I just did the route for the first time last week, its a good little gem.

CCas · · Bend, OR · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 145

Thax guys...

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
jon jugenheimer wrote:Ah, you are talking about that 5.6 (?) wide crack, nope, The Plank heads out right...get on it next time you are there and "Walk the Plank"...you will get the name then. I just did the route for the first time last week, its a good little gem.
Got it! Thanks for the info.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Isn't Breakfast an off-width? Also, I remember Cheetah being more of a thin face climb than true-blue "crack climb."

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Breakfast of Champions is not OW. It's a #3 Camalot sized crack with jugs near/in it. Still, it's a really, really good route. I'd also say that Cheatah is more of a face climb than anything. Also, that "unnamed 5.6 OW" near SOGC is called "Hot Beef Injection."

AJ Leiden · · Eau Claire, WI · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Andy Hansen wrote: Also, that "unnamed 5.6 OW" near SOGC is called "Hot Beef Injection."
Actually it seems the OW Jack is referring to is The Bastard Chimney. We didn't have any idea of the name or grade and Sven's guidebook was less than enlightening. Hot Beef Injection looks fun though!
Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

Yeah AJ's correct: it's "the bastard chimney."

Nathan Sward · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 145

Does anyone know of any slabby routes at the Lake? I know that's almost oxymoronic considering the Baraboo Quartzite. The lady and I are hitting the Flatirons in October, and I'm looking for the best way to accustom her to some exposed slab. Unfortunately we don't have time to travel to the Red, where I know of some routes.

Otherwise we'll just hit some high/exposed routes on gear.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130
nsward wrote:Does anyone know of any slabby routes at the Lake? I know that's almost oxymoronic considering the Baraboo Quartzite. The lady and I are hitting the Flatirons in October, and I'm looking for the best way to accustom her to some exposed slab. Unfortunately we don't have time to travel to the Red, where I know of some routes. Otherwise we'll just hit some high/exposed routes on gear.
There is nothing remotely close to the climbing found on the Flatirons at Devil's Lake. The closest thing you'll find it the Little Flatiron and that is by name only. Your best bet is to just get lots of mileage on Brinton's, Foreplay, Charybdis, Coatamundi, etc. and she'll likely have no problem with the Flatirons.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

Mammalary magic.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,931

lower 1/2 of Boy scout

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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