Is the Owen-Spalding dry?

Brendan Burns wrote:I just climbed OS yesterday prior to this storm. The route was dry and any ice and snow was easily avoidable. There was some ice in the chimneys but did not pose a problem. The routes, (black rock chimneys and Idaho express) from the lower saddle to upper saddle are snow and ice free. Be aware of spontaneous rock fall.

Good news. Thanks for the update

Jim Fox wrote: Good news. Thanks for the update

It was running with water as of last night but it might be dry by tomorrow (sat 7/25). It's relatively warm up there so ice shouldn't be too much of a problem. If the Owen Chimney is still wet, you can climb the crack that splits off to the right when you are about 1/3 of the way up the Owen, that's usually drier. Suerte!

buckie06 wrote:I'm climbing the Upper Exum in a few weeks, will two 40m ropes be enough for the rappels descending the O-S? The guidebooks say the rappel is 120ft = 37 meters... thanks!

For the Owen Spaulding rap- The 60m ropes work ONLY if you rap from the horn. They WON'T work if you rap off the chains. Tie knots in the ends no matter where you rap! And please be careful of the loose rock near the rap stations, it all funnels down to where folks are hanging out and coiling up their ropes or prepping for the start of the OS. Gracias!

Josh Beckner wrote: It was running with water as of last night but it might be dry by tomorrow (sat 7/25). It's relatively warm up there so ice shouldn't be too much of a problem. If the Owen Chimney is still wet, you can climb the crack that splits off to the right when you are about 1/3 of the way up the Owen, that's usually drier. Suerte!

Thanks. I'll be climbing the Upper Exum in 1 week and descend the OS, so sounds like it will be Ok. Might rap Sargent's Chimney, might just downclimb

Can anyone report as to conditions on the North Ridge route, or between Teewinot and Owen? I hope to make a run at the Grand Traverse in the window of August 6-10. Thanks!

I plan on soloing the OS Sunday car-to-car and I'll try to report.

If by chance anyone is interested in joining me last minute, that would be cool. I'd prefer the UExum but prob would rope up for a few short sections. I have a thin rope and harness. I'd do full Exum too, but only have approach shoes, so might not lead the harder sections but surely could follow.

I've done both OS and UE car-to-car (no speed records though).

Joe

The North Ridge gets am sun, and if you do a left hand variation (Italian crack) it would receive more sun into the early afternoon if I remember correctly this time of year. If you plan on doing the original route, I'll bet it will be a bit wet and or ice. Please report when you get down, I am curious as well.

FWIW, I was tooling around the Meadows today doing some photography and everyone that was coming down that had plans of doing the OS bailed due to wetness and ice. This was only a few groups, mostly guides with clients so maybe on the conservative side. I'll probably cruise at least to the upper saddle tomorrow and I'll report back if anyone is interested. I'm solo, so probably won't risk the actual route (I just climbed if a few weeks ago anyway and I'm training for The Picnic). There were MANY parties headed up to camp today for OS attempt tomorrow.

Joe

Thanks Joe. Any info would be great. Let me know if you hear anything about the North Ridge too. Cheers.

Went up the double chimney and then downclimbed. A little wet and some ice, but not bad. Several people did it with no problem I think, but most turned back at the upper saddle that I spoke to on my way up. I'm a wimp when soloing but no problem with a rope I'm sure (or solo for some folks). Warm and dry weather today so I'm sure it will be in good shape ASAP. Upper exum was dry and that is the only route that I could get any real info for. Most did UE and descended the OS. I bet most stuff will be in great shape very soon. Wish the blog would update more regularly.

Joe

Anyone have any updates from the past weekend? I saw that Jackson got hit with snow yesterday. That kinda bummed me out. I'm scheduled to be out there late next month for a Grand attempt (Either OS or Upper Exum depending on weather) and maybe a few other peaks. I'm trying to keep a real-time eye on the conditions.

Thanks for any input!

Luke Lindeman wrote:Anyone have any updates from the past weekend? I saw that Jackson got hit with snow yesterday. That kinda bummed me out. I'm scheduled to be out there late next month for a Grand attempt (Either OS or Upper Exum depending on weather) and maybe a few other peaks. I'm trying to keep a real-time eye on the conditions. Thanks for any input!

We are in Jackson right now and conditions were ugly in the high country yesterday. Warm and sunny now but don't know how things will be on the OS Friday, when we were planning to climb.

tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/

Doubt anyone was up there last night. Hope not, anyway.

I'd really appreciate updates if anyone goes up there today or tomorrow.

Looks pretty grim....

Wind chill of 7 degrees reported at the Lower Saddle, snow accumulating as low as 9,500 feet, daytime temps at the LS in the 20's. I believe it's warming up a little now, but it's gonna take a little while to recover.

blog.mountainweather.com/

Anybody have eyes on the Black Ice Couloir?

Below is a photo of the upper rap chimney on the OS descent. This was taken while descending from the Upper Exum route. This photo was the day before yesterday's storm. I can also confirm we had snow in the meadows last night. Very cold. The OS is prolly a no go for a while. The guides were either going up the upper Exum or going to the enclosure.

Upper OS rap chimney July 26, 2015

Following

Phil Keffer wrote:Below is a photo of the upper rap chimney on the OS descent. This was taken while descending from the Upper Exum route. This photo was the day before yesterday's storm. I can also confirm we had snow in the meadows last night. Very cold. The OS is prolly a no go for a while. The guides were either going up the upper Exum or going to the enclosure.

This is kind of demoralizing! However, I'm hoping that at the end of August/beginning of September that will all be melted away. If some more freak weather comes in I may have to plan to bring more gear than I intended.

Is anyone aware of how populated the mountain gets around those times usually? My plan is to make it out there by August 30th and spend the next 5 days in the park. A few years ago I was out there as late as September 20th and the weather was still perfect.

I was on the Grand on 7/27 when the recent weather came in. Snow was indeed accumulating (in small quantities) as low as 9500' in Garnet Canyon, but not really below that. Rain didn't appear to have done anything significant below about 8500'. You may need to log in to facebook to view it, but here's a video of conditions on our descent from the Lower Saddle circa 13:00 on 27 July: video of conditions at lower saddle

All that said, we climbed the Complete Exum and it was in fine condition--generally dry, sunny, a bit windy, but great. The descent on the O-S did feature some snow and ice, as evidenced by the photo upthread. However, it's worth noting that you rappel right past all that snow and ice in the chimney.

The rest of the snow/ice on route could either be avoided by walking around it or simply carefully walking the well-worn path through the small patches of snow on level steps. The fixed ropes are available at the Lower Saddle headwall as well. Consequently, we did not feel the need for ice axe or crampons, did not bring any, and felt fine with that decision.

Realistically, the axe would only be useful for self-arrest going up to the lower saddle; otherwise, there's not enough snow to have time to self-arrest. At that point, the ice axe becomes a balance tool anyway, in which case I think trekking poles would be more effective. The snow was quite hard, so crampons wouldn't be a bad plan, but again, the snow can be avoided or crossed carefully with relative ease.

Based on the warming trend coming up, I think things will probably dry out reasonably soon. I intend to return this weekend (August 1) and don't anticipate I'll need an axe or crampons then, either.

That said, my partner and I adopt a relatively more aggressive risk management paradigm than most, so make your own choices and act within the limits of your experience, skill level, and acceptable risk.

That video is intense.

I second the things said above.

Plan to climb Exum and not OS. OS is fine going down if you are careful. Skip the ice axe and crampons. Good Luck!