Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> Bulletheads
> Bulletheads, Central
Krimo Gold
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 46
votes
Routes in Bulletheads, Central
|
|
Bullethead East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Bulletheads Central T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Chimp Dip T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Don't Antiheasel Your Weasel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Krimo Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Liquid Gold T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Marooned T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Retrospect T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Ride the Bullet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Third Abortion T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Tonatiuh S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Aaron Kristiansen, Luke Cormier, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,584 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Jun 25, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is a variation to the Liquid Gold route.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.
Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M
Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M ( 1st ascent gives this 10c, I feel like it is 10b)
Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M
Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.
Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.
If Half Moon chimney is wet or you are not into the run out slab you can do this excellent variation.
Pitch 1) LG 10c/d shallow LFC, gradually gets harder as you go up till you are trying to fiddle in some small cams as you come around the crescent overlaps toward the anchor. There is some bigger cam placements out right and dyke holds up high. The bolted anchor is out left, and the original LG bolt and traverse goes right toward the big corner.30M
Pitch 2) 10c, head for 2 bolt traverse across dyke holds, fun moves and get on hand crack, keep going into RFC and layback up to ramps and easy cracks to bolted belay. 32M ( 1st ascent gives this 10c, I feel like it is 10b)
Pitch 3) 10a/b,( the FA team gives it a 10b, we thought it is 10a) 2 bolts protect a thin groove to great finger to hands crack, head for tree, big flake up to belay. 33M
Belay leader up through woods while pulling on fixed line to ledge.
Pitch 4) 10d, The mega 70m crack of Liquid Gold. I was running out of gear and energy so belayed at about 40m on a big foothold with 2 cracks for pro, this left some hard crack moves for the next 30m lead.
Photos
11 Comments