Small cam advice..

- all cams will meet their ratings in a textbook placement

- some cams are stronger than others in the microsizes ... For example the green c3 is rated 7 KN vs 5 KN for the purple metolius ... Does it matter? ... Well if yr a flubby human walrus it might be something to consider

- not all cams will fit equally ... Some are more flexible, others have narrow heads ...

- not all cams will performs equally in "not so good" placements ... This is actually fairly important as this and where it fits is what differentiates small cams, anything will work in good placements

- if yr the human walrus, just as important is a low impact force rope especially on anchored belays and where yr belayer might be tied down and using a grigri because of yr weight

;)

Thanks guys for all the suggestions. You all gave me lots to think about..

Bearbreeder, did I make some Asian joke or recommend that too many people get up to Squamish and now you're hatin? I would talk some shit but a scene in the movie Tommy Boy comes to mind.. You know the one where they get in a fight? That makes me smile..

Mommy, the rhinos getting too close to the car!

He don't wanna get outta the car cause he's just a little guy..

If I wanted a kiss I would've asked your mother!

What happened to your face?

Anything with 3 lobes because finding a good 4 lobe placement that small is rare (in granite)

Hahaha, I just watched Tommy Boy the other day Bill! Great scene for sure!

Bill Kirby wrote:Thanks guys for all the suggestions. You all gave me lots to think about.. Bearbreeder, did I make some Asian joke or recommend that too many people get up to Squamish and now you're hatin? I would talk some shit but a scene in the movie Tommy Boy comes to mind.. You know the one where they get in a fight? That makes me smile.. Mommy, the rhinos getting too close to the car! He don't wanna get outta the car cause he's just a little guy.. If I wanted a kiss I would've asked your mother! What happened to your face?

0 c3 is one of my favorite pieces.

Bill Kirby wrote:Thanks guys for all the suggestions. You all gave me lots to think about.. Bearbreeder, did I make some Asian joke or recommend that too many people get up to Squamish and now you're hatin? I would talk some shit but a scene in the movie Tommy Boy comes to mind.. You know the one where they get in a fight? That makes me smile.. Mommy, the rhinos getting too close to the car! He don't wanna get outta the car cause he's just a little guy.. If I wanted a kiss I would've asked your mother! What happened to your face?

In the Gunks I find c3 and aliens sit way way better than x4

I just got back from a week in Yosemite and had a mixed bag of different cams. Master cams, aliens, friends, C4s and x4s. I found myself placing my offset x4s more than anything else. I even found a link cam at the base of el cap and thought that would be a thank god piece, but really the .3/.4 offset x4 saw the most use all week.