beginner using ATC

Don't teach the technique, teach the concept. An ATC is a device that increases friction, teach them in what orientation the angular forces on the rope are maximum and make them understand that the break side rope is their only priority.

Never let the rope slide through your hands, walk the rope hand over hand

Has anyone tried teaching a new TR belayer with an assisted locker, like that Mammut device? Nearly identical to an ATC, but also pretty happy to lock on fat gym rope.

I don't understand the big deal. If you are that nervous, climb up until your feet are 3 feet off the ground and jump unannounced. If that goes well, try it a little higher. Don't monkey around with auto blocking tricks, if the belayer can't hold you on top rope un assisted, it just isn't going to work, end of story.

The first time I let my wife belay me on lead, I went up about 4 or 5 feet, put in a good piece and threw myself off the rock. She caught me and I climbed on with confidence.

How about that guy in the video, I don't know why he put in the pro after the drop, he was basically free soloing at that point. Personally, I would have pooped my pants and walked away happy I was not dead.

If you can get two new partners out at the same time you can have the 2nd back up the 1st while belaying and lowering until everyone is comfortable. Just have the 2nd hold the break strand in addition to the first, but with a few feet of slack between them.

Great video. People are amazing! Best part is when he is on his second time up and says she is doing a great job!!! She just dropped you!!! WHAT??? And then we catch a glimpse of her fumbling with the rope as he placed his second piece. He must have a death wish or she promised something special if he made it to the top.

Em has got it right.

Part of climbing is confidence in both yourself and your partner. If you don't have confidence in your partner to lower, then you shouldn't have confidence while you go up either.

Why not just climb at the gym asking people around to watch his/her technique until you both get confidence in each other? I personally would be more than happy to back up a beginner TR belay if someone asked, and I know many other experienced climbers that would do the same.

I understand your enthusiasm - we all were in the same position at one time - but... it's not worth it.

why don't you just rappel...

Rick Blair wrote:I don't understand the big deal. If you are that nervous, climb up until your feet are 3 feet off the ground and jump unannounced. If that goes well, try it a little higher. Don't monkey around with auto blocking tricks, if the belayer can't hold you on top rope un assisted, it just isn't going to work, end of story. The first time I let my wife belay me on lead, I went up about 4 or 5 feet, put in a good piece and threw myself off the rock. She caught me and I climbed on with confidence. How about that guy in the video, I don't know why he put in the pro after the drop, he was basically free soloing at that point. Personally, I would have pooped my pants and walked away happy I was not dead.

Thank you! Belaying should not be overthought....it's as simple as "Hold the rope down on that side"

Andrew Wood wrote:Don't teach the technique, teach the concept. An ATC is a device that increases friction, teach them in what orientation the angular forces on the rope are maximum and make them understand that the break side rope is their only priority. Never let the rope slide through your hands, walk the rope hand over hand

Absolutely agree. An experienced belayer has muscle memory on the technique. But trying to teach a Step1,2,3,4,5 technique is not the correct approach.

Try to teach me a dance routine Step1,2,3,4,5 and I'll guarantee I'll stuff it up. Tell me to hold a brake rope in a locked position at all times is a simpler and more straight forward requirement.