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Rockreation LA vs. Hangar 18 Southbay

Original Post
crimper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Hey LA residents,

I'm going to a conference in LA next week, and where I'm staying is almost equidistant from Rockreation LA and Hangar 18 Southbay. I'll hopefully have a free evening or two. Which gym is better for bouldering?

If you need some help in your evaluation, please use the following criteria:

1. Setting quality and wall geometry
2. Frequency of turnover/greasiness of holds
3. Likelihood of being so crowded that you WILL go nose to armpit with someone
4. Ratio of shirtless dudes to screaming children
5. Systems board? Hangboard? Campus board?
6. Is either particularly featherbagged? I took a few weeks off due to injury so I want to feel really good about myself.
7. If you were to pit the members of one against the other in a game of streetball, who would win?

lozo bozo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30

is this a joke

crimper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Haha no, serious question, just having some fun with it. I really am trying to decide which gym to check out.

Dhayan Roark · · Crowley Lake, CA · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 10

If you can, check out LA Boulders downtown which is much much larger than either Rockreation or Hangar, and has more interesting terrain and good setting (maybe a bit softer too). If distance is an issue then I'd choose Rockreation.

andrew thomas · · Orcas island · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

well I went to hangar 18 southbay in the evening once.. it looked like a rock concert....

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,402

in LA, equidistant doesn't nec mean equal driving times. would really depend on where exactly you're at and which traffic megaclustermess you would have to get thru, esp wkday late afternoons to early evenings

crimper wrote:7. If you were to pit the members of one against the other in a game of streetball...
both teams would arrive (if at all) on the agreed upon street too brain dead to remember what they went there to do, after suffering thru their respective traffic hell. also likely that a few would be driven mad to commit brah-icide inside their ride, ending up severely traumatized. either way, they would be in no condition to streetball
kmyee · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 16

H18 southbay is crowded and horrible on weekday evenings. it has relatively new problems that were set less than 2 weeks ago, and problems that have 6 months of hand grease on them. problem ratings and setting quality are wildly inconsistent. go before 6pm if you can.

I've never been to Rockreation so I can't comment on it.

I've heard nothing but good things about LA Boulders (downtown). I'd probably go there if I were you.

ColinF · · Los Angeles · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

If we're suggesting spots downtown I'd recommend Stronghold. The bouldering is solid and new problems go up every couple of weeks. They also power wash the holds regularly. They've got leading also, so if you decide to check it out message me and I can give you some catches during the week after 5.

brian burke · · mammoth lakes, ca · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 165

stronghold.

setting, environment, clean new holds, people, proximity to nice bar, all make it the clear winner.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

Go to the LAB. Nice facility and pretty good sets and will make you feel good about yourself. Unless you get out early enough to climb outside. Then brave the heinous traffic on the 405 to Stoney Point.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Stoney Point.....

Do they make movies about GYMS???? Maybe in a 100 years.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Stoney is the shit!! God I miss that place. Do not miss the chance to go there. Definitely go with your blinders on though, it's pretty rugged.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I think Hangar 18 is better than Rockcreation overall. They just set a number of new routes, and actually have been doing so regularly of late. Plus, there's more bouldering terrain than Rockcreation, which is actually pretty small. Hangar 18 can get crowded, but people are pretty mellow.

Haven't even heard of the LA Boulders. While I think the Stronghold is a nice gym, I was REALLY disappointed in the bouldering area. Very little steep. Just not very inspired design. A real missed opportunity I think.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Personally I like, Sender 1. Both of those W-LA gyms are going to take a big hit when the new Sender 1 opens up at Pico and the 405.

And Mike says "Definitely go with your blinders on though, it's pretty rugged."

Mike I think I know what your speaking about, when was the last time you visited?

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Guy Keesee wrote:Personally I like, Sender 1. Both of those W-LA gyms are going to take a big hit when the new Sender 1 opens up at Pico and the 405. And Mike says "Definitely go with your blinders on though, it's pretty rugged." Mike I think I know what your speaking about, when was the last time you visited?
It's been awhile, maybe 8-10 years. I spent a lot of time there when I first started climbing and it really had a special place in my heart so it's urban style didn't really bother me too much. If you go in the early spring it can actually be really pretty. This time of year it looks like a shithole that is covered in graffiti that is covered in chalk on a bed of broken glass with hobos and gangsters roaming around. But hey, the bouldering is 5 stars.

I would be stoked to hear that it is not that way anymore. If that place was in the middle of Bishop it would be considered world class.
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Sender One is the best gym in So Cal, though Mesa Rim in San Diego is pretty good too. I thought the new Sender One was near LAX in El Segundo?

pkeds · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

H18 over rockreation IMHO.

LA Bouldering and sender in a heartbeat over the two above however. Once sender1 opens near LAX I will be changing my membership from H18 to S1 in a heartbeat. The lack of a drinking fountain, a clean and well lit facility, consistent and quality setting, and non-sray painted holds @h18 has me eagerly awaiting a new gym near by. It's also way crowded with a pretty bro-y scene which had led to a fair amount of injuries.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Mike.... Stoney is cleaned up. We still have some graffitti, but one of the "artist" and his gang, who were caught in the act.... were physically run out of town.....

Skippy and Mr. E , who have moved to Bishop, did a ton of graffiti clean up, for several years.

REI has sponsored many clean ups. They were able to mobilize all of the local scout troops and other groups to come out and really clean things up - YES even all the broken glass under "Hot Tuna" was raked out and the dirt sifted and put back. There is a really cool V10 now because all the cleaning - Cold Sushi.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-y1G00cHTA

I think Stoney Point is one of the few places in the USA where there is a community of climbers who help and support each other.

And My Bad on the location of the new Sender 1, it might just be a few more exits south on the 405.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-y1G00cHTA

Darn, I can never get the MP video function to work properly?????

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
Guy Keesee wrote:Mike.... Stoney is cleaned up. We still have some graffitti, but one of the "artist" and his gang, who were caught in the act.... were physically run out of town..... Skippy and Mr. E , who have moved to Bishop, did a ton of graffiti clean up, for several years. REI has sponsored many clean ups. They were able to mobilize all of the local scout troops and other groups to come out and really clean things up - YES even all the broken glass under "Hot Tuna" was raked out and the dirt sifted and put back. There is a really cool V10 now because all the cleaning - Cold Sushi. youtube.com/watch?v=4-y1G00… I think Stoney Point is one of the few places in the USA where there is a community of climbers who help and support each other. And My Bad on the location of the new Sender 1, it might just be a few more exits south on the 405.
Nice, I'm glad to hear that that place is being taken care. It definitely deserves it. Man I would love to spend a day out there right now, Oregon climbing makes me miss home so much!
crimper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for all the feedback, everyone. I wish I had enough free time in town to check out Stoney Point, looks like quality rock. Also due to time constraints and Uber estimates, I think it's still coming down to either H18 or Rockreation. The other gyms look sick though.

Pkeds - what is this about spraypainted holds at H18?? Why?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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