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Crack of Fear hit list

Original Post
DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Id like to work up to climbing the Crack of Fear in Lumpy and I'm looking for routes to work up to it. Any routes come to mind in the front range up to Vedauwoo and as far west as Indian Creek that will build up my wide skills? Looking for around 10 routes. Thanks a bunch.

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

Morning bump.

jeff walz · · Historic SodoSopa · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 15

This thread should help you find some nearby:
mountainproject.com/v/front…

Gold Plated Rocket Pony · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 96

Another good list:
mountainproject.com/v/tuesd…

William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

Its on my list as well, if you need a partner I would love to work up to this rig by the fall. Cheers hope it goes well.

DWF 3 · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 186

I appreciate the links guys. Exactly what I was looking for.

William, what's you schedule look like?

William Rhyne · · Casper, Wyoming · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 135

I'll be a weekend warrior for the rest of the year probably. Might be able to work out a 3-4day weekend. I usually frequent WY crags/walls but if we need to tick off some "crack of fear" pre reqs then I can come swing down to CO for some climbing. Not really super tall but the Voo has been my resource for wide training lately. Lets stay in touch and try to work something out.

Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

I also want to get on Crack of Fear - but it's closed when I'm in the front range. Having never attempted the route, take this recommendation with a grain of sand -- get on Lobotomy at the Cliffs of Insanity. Flaring #6 crack to splitter #6 crack that pinches down to fingers at the top. It's about 38 meters and sustained the whole way.

Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

I'd like to use this forum as a question for those who have done crack of fear.

Age old question: Left side in or Right side in?

After climbing COF and then reading the comments section, it looks like there really isn't a 'consensus' on which side to climb it. I led the first pitch left side in, which is totally committing to the OW techniques. But all my buddies did it right side in and stated they thought that right was right. Lot's more opportunities to rest and use face features.

Then on the second pitch (crux) my buddy 'led' it right side in again. But I'm still wondering if committing to the left side in would be easier?

Has anyone out there done it clean to provide their opinion? Anyone ever try both sides to verify?

Ray

Jim6565 Brassell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Here is a decent list to start with.

Right Parallel Space, 5.5
Hamburger Crack, 5.7
Satterfields Crack 5.8
Hammer, 5.8+ (2 pitches)
Fallout, 5.9
Fantasia, 5.9
Mainstreet, 5.10a
Left Torpedo Tube, 5.10+

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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