TR trip line

Saw a top-rope setup yesterday running from the top of Berkeley and across the East Bluff trail.

I went around below to ask the folks who were using it if it was their rope. No, it wasn't theirs, but belonged to the people over on Brinton's ... and it did seem like kind of a 'funky' setup to them [but clearly did not strike them as needing a fix].

So I went back around the corner. Whose rope? Your anchor is a trip line across the main trail? Their response: they are new to climbing, don't have many skills yet, and they asked a bunch of nearby climbers if it was okay. Everyone told them it was fine. [They were a bit apologetic - clearly they suspected it might not be a good idea to cross the trail like that.]

I'd be glad to help you set it up so it is not a trip line ... there is another tree you could have used. They were going to take it down soon. Can I fix it myself, then? Sure. So I did.

Later, the guy who took responsibility for the anchor came around and apologized.

I think I'm most dismayed that all the other climbers around them thought it was okay to run a trip line across the trail, and were happy enough to also use that anchor.

It might be time to republish and redistribute the "Devils Lake Safety and Climbing Etiquette" pamphlet.

hey doug that sounds like a good WCA project. do you have the files for printing? and maybe we can get Steve S. to help with a short informative video. I have been wanting to do some PSA videos regarding climbing etiquette and such and this seems like a good issue to tackle. i'll bring it up at the meeting tonight.

Good work Doug. Handled appropriately.

Doug Hemken wrote:Saw a top-rope setup yesterday running from the top of Berkeley and across the East Bluff trail. I went around below to ask the folks who were using it if it was their rope. No, it wasn't theirs, but belonged to the people over on Brinton's ... and it did seem like kind of a 'funky' setup to them [but clearly did not strike them as needing a fix]. So I went back around the corner. Whose rope? Your anchor is a trip line across the main trail? Their response: they are new to climbing, don't have many skills yet, and they asked a bunch of nearby climbers if it was okay. Everyone told them it was fine. [They were a bit apologetic - clearly they suspected it might not be a good idea to cross the trail like that.] I'd be glad to help you set it up so it is not a trip line ... there is another tree you could have used. They were going to take it down soon. Can I fix it myself, then? Sure. So I did. Later, the guy who took responsibility for the anchor came around and apologized. I think I'm most dismayed that all the other climbers around them thought it was okay to run a trip line across the trail, and were happy enough to also use that anchor. It might be time to republish and redistribute the "Devils Lake Safety and Climbing Etiquette" pamphlet.

Doug,
I chatted with James S. about this issue yesterday. I guess he saw the same folks/anchors as you. I'm glad you were able to right the situation. It sounds like you not only made the anchor more acceptable to other park users but did so in a manner which didn't intimidate or embarrass the culprit. As a climber who remembers his gumby years at the lake like they were yesterday (cuz they were), I can attest that polite and discrete correction of ethics/rockcraft is appreciated.

I think it was in the other TR anchor thread that someone proposed the idea of a business card to leave in/on anchors to educate the setter about proper anchor etiquette/design. Maybe it doesn't have all the details on the card, but links to a website? I see one which indicates jive-a**ness and one that indicates you are being an a**.

MR

I think there were several important factors to me not getting beaten up for being an asshole.

(1) I was willing to put in the personal time and effort to help them correct the anchor. It was also clear that I felt strongly enough about how inappropriate their anchor was to put in the time myself even if they were reluctant to, and even if it wasn't going to remain up for very long. All of that sends the message that "this is important."

(2) The revised anchor I set was something they had the knowledge, equipment, and skills to set themselves. We can't always be this lucky.

(3) I rapped on my revised anchor, and stayed in that area climbing. I didn't just mess with their anchor and split.

Just leaving a note strikes me as ineffective, for a whole host of reasons.