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Super Mama (Direct)
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 4 from 22
votes
Routes in The Grasshopper Wall
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Blue Light Special S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bro Job S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dances With Cows S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Escape From the Pod S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Esplanada S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hot Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kielbasa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Little Smokey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slim Jim S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Super Mama (Direct) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | M. Wendling - Super Mama, (Josh Merriam- Direct 8-31-08?) |
| Page Views: | 6,952 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Joshua Merriam on Jul 8, 2008 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
On July 4th, 2008 during the 10th Ten Sleep climbing Festival, I returned to the French Cattle Ranch to add bolts for the direct start to this beautiful line. The original start, shared with Sugar Mama, traversed in from the left following a crack which peters out as it gains the gold streak at the fifth bolt. Long moves between amazing pockets and small crimps lead up the remaining six bolts.
Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.
The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.
The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.
Four new bolts go directly up the gold streak to the beginning of the original crux. Start at the eye level flake and do some thin slab moves at the second bolt. Then zig zag a bit following the best holds you can find till joining the original line.
The upper section has many hard, long moves up vertical terrain with marginal feet. I particularly love the "peanut" hold which is a shallow oblong pocket for your index and ring, but too pinched off for the middle. A pair of good rest holds allow a shake before the undercling and crimp sequence guarding the last bolt before the anchors.
The original guide called this the best line on the wall, and I feel that the direct start improves the continuity and the aesthetics. I'd give it a quality rating of three beautiful ladies wrapped in two American flags.
7 Comments