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Routes in Main Cliff Right
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Charity Case S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Charity Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cherry Pie* T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack Addict S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crowd Pleaser S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Toad* S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Flawless Victory S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Freebird* T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Friendship Tower S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gentleman's Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get a Grip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Get It On S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Happy Hooker T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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High Roller* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Losing Eleven* S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Magic Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Magic Helmet S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Model Citizen S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Resurrection Stone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Run Out T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Stained Glass Ceiling* S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stairway to Heaven* S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tipping Point S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Toady Dreams S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tour De Toad S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wendell's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Toad T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | George Wendell II and III 1960's |
| Page Views: | 2,079 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Nov 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
I know nobody is surprised when i say that i love a route that no one has ever heard of let alone climbed... But this is one more to add to the list... Sure there are better routes to climb at Rumney but why not climb them all and if your going to climb them why not enjoy your self... This is likely to be the first route at Rumney and i think it was a great pick for the times following a weakness up the full height of Main Cliff with a hair raising finish...
Pitch 1: Start as for White Toad (5.7) climbing a vegetated corner and when you get to the first pin where WT breaks right continue up and then left following the path of least resistance... Follow a wide crack up and left on slabby rock (I once heard a not to confident party cursing that they wanted a wide cam here but i didn't use one)... This will bring you to the Charity Case anchor...
Intermission: You might want to move the belay to the base of the next pitch... I think there is one bolt and some nut/tcu placements there... This is not so much a pitch as a walk on a ledge... You can run the 1st pitch out to here but then it's quite long...
Pitch 2: Wendell's second pitch starts roughly under the finish of Rock Du Jours going up 20-25 feet then heading right on a more obvious line following cracks and face holds past fixed pins and a few tricky placements. The climbing here is moderate... Just below the top you will get to a steep section where you have to traverse right (crux) in a very exposed position under some roofs that have a gunks like quality where you find your way around things rather than blasting through them... These moves are my reason for loving this route... The upper crux moves are protected by old pins but you may be able to get other gear in as well...
Lower off with a 60m rope freehanging down to the ledge and belay the follower from the charity case anchor... Have them clean the route and lower down to you...
Pitch 1: Start as for White Toad (5.7) climbing a vegetated corner and when you get to the first pin where WT breaks right continue up and then left following the path of least resistance... Follow a wide crack up and left on slabby rock (I once heard a not to confident party cursing that they wanted a wide cam here but i didn't use one)... This will bring you to the Charity Case anchor...
Intermission: You might want to move the belay to the base of the next pitch... I think there is one bolt and some nut/tcu placements there... This is not so much a pitch as a walk on a ledge... You can run the 1st pitch out to here but then it's quite long...
Pitch 2: Wendell's second pitch starts roughly under the finish of Rock Du Jours going up 20-25 feet then heading right on a more obvious line following cracks and face holds past fixed pins and a few tricky placements. The climbing here is moderate... Just below the top you will get to a steep section where you have to traverse right (crux) in a very exposed position under some roofs that have a gunks like quality where you find your way around things rather than blasting through them... These moves are my reason for loving this route... The upper crux moves are protected by old pins but you may be able to get other gear in as well...
Lower off with a 60m rope freehanging down to the ledge and belay the follower from the charity case anchor... Have them clean the route and lower down to you...
Location
You can either get to the base from the Charity Case anchor and head left or from the center Main Cliff area heading up and right below Goldbug etc...
The route climbs the corner to the left of the big roof of Freebird...
Start anchored below a face 100 feet left of the Charity Case anchor... Roughly below the finish of Rock Du Jours...
The route climbs the corner to the left of the big roof of Freebird...
Start anchored below a face 100 feet left of the Charity Case anchor... Roughly below the finish of Rock Du Jours...
Photos
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