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Cascadian Couloir
3rd YDS 1- French 1 Ewbanks I UIAA 1 ZA M 1a British Easy Snow
Avg: 1.8 from 36
votes
Routes in Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow |
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Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow |
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Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4 |
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Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow |
| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 4500 ft (1364 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Samuel Gannett (1895, FKA) |
| Page Views: | 9,008 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Lacroix on Jun 18, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
This route is the climber descent route, with some class 3 rock, when melted out. In winter and spring, it is a popular ski descent and snow climb. Cornices can form on the summit ridge.
From the Ingalls Creek Trail, take one of several access trails around the 4800-5000 ft elevation, approx. 0.1 mile downstream of the Long's Pass trail junction. Follow the trail(s) through trees and brush until the angle steepens and the terrain becomes more loose and rocky. Bypass several small cliffs and continue climbing up the gully. Around 8000 ft cross a minor ridge to the east (climber's left) and continue up loose sand and scree. Scramble up through a notch around 9000 ft near the false summit, then make a rising traverse to the true summit (cairns and bivy sites are numerous here).
When descending, make sure to stay high enough to go through the false summit notch around 9000 ft before dropping down. It is easy to descend too early and enter the wrong couloir.
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