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Alpine/Big Wall Bivy Sack

Original Post
Nicholas Aretz · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 55

I am new to the idea of bivying before and alpine accent. I am climbing Spearhead in RMNP next weekend and we are going to bivy the night before. I also plan on climbing some big wall in Zion next summer that would require a portaledge.

I am looking for recommendations on what bivy sack to buy. Do I need a hard point? Ect

Thank you

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I wrote all this, then thought it was too general to be relevant, its the perspective of a bivy sack owner, not a alpine or big wall climber.

But rather than just delete it, make of it what you will...Here it is:

Going to have a fly on that portaledge? What function is the bivy sack to provide, protection against rain? Using just a bivy sack in heavy rain is miserable, you inevitably get wet, some other shelter is needed in addition. If its protection against wind and spindrift, then waterproof isn't needed.

It it were me and waterproof was a requirement...As an owner of a normalish fully featured Integral Designs bivy sack that weighs ~700g, I'd go down the light and simple route with a light WPB fabric that scores well in the breathable side of things. I'd first most consider either neoshell or eVent cuben fibre.

Teton Bros makes a neoshell bivy that comes in at 350g, if you can manage to get your hands on one: iceclimbingjapan.com/2014/0…

As for the CF option, I don't know of any that exist. zpacks.com however will sell you the fabric at 60 dollars a yard, that'll get you the lightest WPB option that I know of. You'll have to make it yourself, or get someone too. The good news is CF has a reputation of being easy to work with.

There's other things out on the market, too. If you drop the requirement of waterproofness, then this looks mighty attractive given its weight:
mountainlaureldesigns.com/s…
A mere 130g for the large with a CF floor or 213g with a silnylon floor.

With that saved weight, you can carry more stuff - even a sizable tarp or 2 man mid.

CF is sensitive to abrasion, but it's also trivial to patch as tape actually sticks to it. eVent is a more delicate membrane than the traditional goretex, but breath-ability equates to dryness - which is the whole point. I don't get out enough to have the higher cost of these less durable materials impact my wallet, and I have a strong dislike of unnecessarily heavy packs. For those who have tight budget constraints, I suggest making your own bivy sack is well within your reach (it's just an oversized pillow case).

Regarding the tie-in, that's more complexity in manufacture thus driving up cost, and the weight too. You could improvise with a hex.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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