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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Boogey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farewell to Fingers T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Art Gran and Joe Kelsey, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 2,028 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | BrianRH on Apr 30, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Head up the open book on the left to start, then up the face on the right to a small birch tree. Step right and go up to the obvious left-facing corner. Follow that up to a roof on the right. Move right, and head for the ledge with the pine tree that used to be the rap station. It is still there but is now perpendicular to the cliff. Anchor here, but transfer another 20-30 feet right to another rap station to descend (2013).
It looks kind of bushy from the ground so is easily passed over, but turns out to be a very nice pitch for the grade.
P1 is 80 ft. but P2 and P3 add another 80 and 100 ft.
It looks kind of bushy from the ground so is easily passed over, but turns out to be a very nice pitch for the grade.
P1 is 80 ft. but P2 and P3 add another 80 and 100 ft.
Location
After you've passed Birdland and Grease Gun Groove, keep walking until the trail heads just slightly uphill, then starts to head back down. The apex of the trail corresponds to an open book in the rock, and a very slabby left-leaning undercut crack (lower left of picture) formed by a block. The face left of and above this crack is Lonely Challenge - aim for the set of corners above leading to the tree on the ledge.
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