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Frisky Lady
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 1.9 from 10 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Wright & Tarrant, Fall 2008, FFA Mark Tarrant |
Page Views: | 1,970 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jun 4, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Start Frisky Lady right of Stuck In Time and behind the tree. FL has three distinct cruxes. The first comes at bolt three where an open hand gains the clip, 5.11b/c. This used to be from a very nice crimp which has subsequently fallen off. The crux of the climb comes in gaining the large flake at 50ft. Originally this was picked up fairly easily from a good edge just below the flake. This too has broken off since the route was first bolted and run on jugs. Mark solved this with a burly and hard to reach push off the right side. If you are much less than 6ft tall this will seem nearly impossible, 5.12. The final crux comes in the ultra thin slab above. Nothing has changed here from the original. The slab is tricky, balancy, and elegant. The solution traverses low before entering the thiner moves above. Super well protected here, 5.11c. Kudos to Mark for finding a way through the second crux.
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