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Zugspitze, Germany, in October. A dive please.

Original Post
Rutherford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

I'm looking at doing Zugspitze, via the Höllental route, in late October. Does anyone have any experience of climbing this route at that time of year, and whether the via ferrata route is accessible?

MalcolmX · · Munich, Germany · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

The via ferrat should be assecible all year long so that no problem. So if you are fine with winter conditions and climbing in crampoons it should not be a problem to do this route, though it is definately not the ideal time as you can imagine.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

I'd guess it's likely that the steel cable and other VF fixtures in the upper sections will be buried under snow. From looking down over the Höllental route while I was doing the Jubilaeumsgrat traverse, seemed like the upper section was somewhat N-facing, so once snow falls on it, it's likely to stay for the winter.

The snow would likely be unconsolidated, so difficult trail-breaking. And it's a long route anyway.

Early-season winter snowpack often has significant avalanche hazard.

Not sure if the hut has a warden/guardian in that season.

I climbed the Watzmann-Ostwand (similar altitude around southern Germany / Austria border) in late September, and two days afterward there was a snowstorm -- so most knowledgable climbers in that region then felt there was no point in trying it until next year.

Jubilaeumsgrat traverse is just above the Höllental route. People sometimes do the Jub traverse in winter with snow on it, but typically takes twice as long (so I've heard most winter parties bivouac midway).

For climbing the Höllental route with snow on it, I would wait for springtime.

Ken

scoTt Millbern · · Langenfeld, DE · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 1,500

Are you limited to October, or are you wanting to do the route in winter?

I hope to due this route in the next few months to check it out for a possible winter climb.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

winter traverse of the Julaeumsgrat (long ridge connecting Alpspitze and Zugspitze) might be even better. I recall there's a metal bivy shelter in the middle. I think there has been lots of reports about the Jub traverse on UKclimbing and SummitPost - (and of course on German-language websites).

The views are way way bigger and the climbing situations surely more interesting on the Jub ridge than on the Hollental route.

Maybe this will whet your appetite:
google "Jubilaeumsgrat winter"

Ken

sstrauss · · Denver · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 80

I am looking at traveling in and climbing the Hollental route on Aug. 6th or 7th. Is anyone interested in partnering up?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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