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Matt Baker
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Jul 21, 2015
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Portland, OR
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 35
Can you imagine what crags would look like if everyone left their draws on the walls. Take a second to visualize it
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Matt Baker
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Jul 21, 2015
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Portland, OR
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 35
Again I would not take the draws but think they should be kept clean. Pack it in pack it out. Thats it
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Bill Kirby
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Jul 21, 2015
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Keene New York
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 480
But feeding the troll is much more logical..
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Will S
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Jul 21, 2015
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Joshua Tree
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 1,061
Matt Baker wrote: I'm a tradster and am constantly amazed at people spouting off high climbing grades acting like they are the shit, when in reality they mean "I can climb 2.12 bolt to bolt then practice for days and finally get it, a huge joke to me. I can put most of you high grade sport climbers on a 5.9+ that would make you puke. Get over it, take your draws home, or risk them getting stolen. LOLOL. Um, ok fella. That's a nice land of make believe you live in. So you being weak and confining yourself to trad (I climb in all genres, yes wide cracks too) justifies theft? WTF?
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Matt Baker
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Jul 21, 2015
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Portland, OR
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 35
You don't get it. Grades don't matter, don't leave your stuff out in the public if you don't want someone to clean them up, lets not get distracted.
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ze dirtbag
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Jul 21, 2015
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Tahoe
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 50
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csproul
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Jul 21, 2015
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
Matt Baker wrote:You don't get it. Grades don't matter, don't leave your stuff out in the public if you don't want someone to clean them up, lets not get distracted. Except you're the one who brought up making sportos puke on 5.9+. Apparently grades only matter when you talk about them. Let's not get distracted with the word "cleaning". The word you're looking for is theft. I said it before: if you want to make some statement about cleaning up abandoned gear, fine. Pull the draws, man up, and tell us what you did and why. Hell, even if can't handle the confrontation, leave the draws somewhere for their owner with a note telling them to stop leaving their trash. If you keep the draws and remain anonymous, you're just a thieving coward.
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Jan Tarculas
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Jul 21, 2015
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Riverside, Ca
· Joined Mar 2010
· Points: 927
csproul wrote: Except you're the one who brought up making sportos puke on 5.9+. Apparently grades only matter when you talk about them. Let's not get distracted with the word "cleaning". The word you're looking for is theft. Agreed. Why speaks of grades if they don't matter?
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Altered Ego
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Jul 21, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 0
Today at Smith somebody stole my draws from Overboard. I left for like 20 minutes to hit the ganj and came back was like, nah brah, this can't be happening. I'll drink a six pack if someone brings them shits.
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Matt Baker
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Jul 21, 2015
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Portland, OR
· Joined Aug 2008
· Points: 35
whatever... said my piece, go ahead and experiment. I wont take them, but my bet is someone will, don't be surprised. Im done over and out, peace
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csproul
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Jul 21, 2015
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
Well, I won't be leaving any of my draws up anywhere since I am under no illusion that they'll not be taken by some d-bag. Just because I'm realistic about those expectations doesn't mean that when it happens to someone else I don't recognize it for the theft that it is.
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Petsfed 00
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Jul 21, 2015
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Snohomish, WA
· Joined Mar 2002
· Points: 989
Matt Baker wrote:I am not tooting my own horn on how bad ass 5.9+ is, I'm not. Just throwing out the famous old 5.9+ rating to say grades are all over the place, especially when you go to crags like [b]vedauwoo[/b], the south platte or at altitude. Ok I just remembered one i've done to quote. How about the Steck Salathe 5.9? If you just read the rating you think one thing then get on the route and you realize another. Great route, climbed it clean and I wouldn't change the rating, I love to getting schooled. Comparing grades is not that simple and is one of the problems between comparing sport climbs and trad climbs. Different beasts Squat was bolted, on rappel, and originally climbed as a sport climb. It did not see a "trad" ascent until its second ascent. Vedauwoo actually has 2 robust sport crags, one steep enough to justify project draws. It is not now, nor has it ever been, a bastion of trad ethics. It just has offwidths, which most people are bad at, so they claim that 5.9+ is a relic of olden days. Its not. 5.11b is the Vedauwoo sandbag grade, and it has nothing to do with being unwilling to go higher on the grade.
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Will S
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Jul 22, 2015
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Joshua Tree
· Joined Nov 2006
· Points: 1,061
Matt Baker wrote:You don't get it. Grades don't matter, don't leave your stuff out in the public if you don't want someone to clean them up, Oh, I get it. You're trying to justify THEFT by calling it "cleaning up". You were the person who brought grades into the conversation, I just pointed out that you're weak. Both in your climbing and your attempt to justify stealing from a fellow climber.
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Gordy Schafer
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Jul 22, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 193
As someone who digs sport & trad, I hope that this forum post will educate anyone who actually didn't know, QD's on sport routes cannot be "bootied", only stolen. Sometimes, it's a matter of how complex it can be to clean the route, sometimes it's just a matter of convenience. Take it for what it is. If there are draws hung on the route I want to climb, it saves me the trouble... To me, it makes no difference. Placing pro can be tricky, so pink point/ red pointing is a valid argument. Sport climbing is generally safe & convenient, & should feel hard because of the movement. Some people can't appreciate both. I didn't know, until I finally took a sport climbing trip, away from my local areas. I came across a 35 meter pitch warm up with QDs hanging up it. I started up the route wondering if I was scoring some booty gear, perhaps due to a storm the day before. Upon further inspection I noticed Petzl sponsorship dog-bones on the draws, being that it was only a mid 5.11, I was confused... I clipped the chains, lowered down & ask my friend, who has been sport climbing hard routes for 15 years, he said it was the norm to leave draws up. I was a little confused until Joe Kinder walked around the corner & did a few laps before moving on to something harder. I sure would have been ashamed & embarrassed if I had his draws racked on my harness... I know Daniel, (hey dude) Sorry about your gear.
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Joe Crawford
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Jul 22, 2015
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Truckee, CA
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 105
I've never seen fixed draws on any of the classic 11's or 12a/b's at Smith. It seems that the accepted practice leans toward cleaning draws on the popular routes and only leaving fixed gear on harder(>12c) or less classic lines. Sorry about your gear, I wouldn't have taken it, but I can understand why someone would.
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bentobox
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Jul 25, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 0
This is bullshit. The rule at my local is that if you spot the gear from down low you have to solo up the route, collecting said booty in hands to be able to keep it. If you survive, the treasure is yours. If you don't, the owner can claim it from your corpse.
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webdog
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Jul 25, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 0
I'll never understand draws left on a route. It's one thing if it's fixed draws on some crazy cave/overhang but who leaves draws just hanging on bolts? That being said I'd probably leave them hanging or just clip them to all to one bolt. It's pretty unrealistic to expect your draws to stay put on a popular climb
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Marc801 C
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Jul 25, 2015
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
webdog wrote:I'll never understand draws left on a route. It's one thing if it's fixed draws on some crazy cave/overhang but who leaves draws just hanging on bolts? That being said I'd probably leave them hanging or just clip them to all to one bolt. It's pretty unrealistic to expect your draws to stay put on a popular climb Maybe perhaps read the rest of the thread?
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webdog
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Jul 25, 2015
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 0
I read it. Leaving draws on routes is just plain lazy, expect them to be taken. You don't leave your rope at your high point and come back and get it later. This was not a ground up FA, it's a established route
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Michael Brady
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Jul 27, 2015
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Wenatchee, WA
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 1,392
webdog wrote:. You don't leave your rope at your high point and come back and get it later. Happens all the time
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