SCC Community Forum

BHMBen wrote:"US"...he says... Got some insider information that none of the rest of us have? Well, do ya, SCC guy?

Wow. You guys really are paranoid.

As I've repeatedly explained, I know a single SCC board member. He told me informally that the only confirmed retro bolt at YB is Tilt, and it's only two bolts. And there's one bolt installed by Jeb Orr as an alternate direct start into some other line or something. But only 1 retro bolt. 3 bolts total. I am disappointed in the SCC for taking so long. I think they should have immediately and publicly informed everybody just how overblown and ridiculous the Yellow Bluff scenario was and I'm annoyed that they're dragging their feet with it. So it's not public, which is a mistake I think, but this information isn't a huge secret. You already have it. I'm also telling it to you and this whole message board right now, again. But I don't know why we're even talking about this - you guys already know this, I am certainly not the only person with this info, and you guys have already said it's all a lie anyhow, despite refusing to provide any evidence to the contrary. Broken record.

About Steele, I meant "us" as in climbers in general - nobody is supposed to climb on private property, right? But I see what you're getting at, that's real clever. You should be a detective. Once again, I've never been to Steele. Will probably never go. Don't care. But I'm glad they bought those 18 routes. The alternative was someone else buying the lot and telling everyone to stay off his property. I think that happened with the left side of the cliff, and that guy is a climber! (Zeke, since you don't know what's happening - Ben owns the left side of Steele. Do NOT climb there!) Anyhow, 18 routes is better than none. But since we're talking about it, could you guys please clarify something? Are you upset about climbing on private land under any circumstances, only when it's talked about and advertised, or only when it's on your property? If I climb there and you don't know, is that OK?

Climbing on private land is acceptable when permission from the land owner has been granted. Otherwise it's trespassing and I'm against it.

How do you feel?

Yeah, climbing on private land without permission is trespassing and we should never do it, right guys?

wwes wrote:Are you upset about climbing on private land under any circumstances, only when it's talked about and advertised, or only when it's on your property? If I climb there and you don't know, is that OK?

When it is a practice condoned and advertised by the SCC...I think that is outside, and even counter to, their mission. Do you disagree?

I do not disagree. Will you guys answer some of my questions now?

If you tell us who you are. Too many Trolls with no street cred in the mix.

I'm Wes, just like my profile says. Except apparently I'm not the first on Mountain Project so I had to go with wwes. I don't have any "street cred". We've shaken hands before, you just don't remember me. 97% of the SCC doesn't know me either. I am not a secret agent. I'm just a random SE climber. I don't know what the hell my identity has to do with anything though or why you guys keep bringing it up instead of just taking my questions on their merits. They have all been pretty simple and straightforward. Such as: have any of your routes been retro bolted at Yellow Bluff? If so, which ones? Are all the routes you recently listed on SCC property?

Hey wwes, let me tell you my Boatrock experience with a new board member. It started with a story at Joshua Tree and how he had to endure some old Trad guys dissing sport climbers all night long. He went on to tell me he was never so humiliated in all his climbing life! Go figure taking a trip to Southern California into the Lions Den of Traditional climbing. I also asked him to account for all the boxes of bolts mailed to various parties before the meeting in Chattanooga and yet he could not. Hell if I am going to support an organization that would take my hard earned money and retro bolt my routes after what I have done for the climbing community!

I think Wes just wants to know what routes those are, Shannon.

I'm kinda curious as well. Seems no one has come forth with that info yet. It could be very beneficial to the discussion of retro bolting and restoration of trad lines.

zekem wrote:I think Wes just wants to know what routes those are, Shannon. I'm kinda curious as well. Seems no one has come forth with that info yet. It could be very beneficial to the discussion of retro bolting and restoration of trad lines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ks072waMayk

^^what?

Sorry Zeke, couldn't resist. But I don't think you get how this works yet. Have you read this thread? Also, if you're reading this Saxfiend, can I post videos with profanity? There's a much better long version of this.

Shannon, that's a pretty cool story, but I already know it because I was there. I'm pretty sure that board member you're talking about is the one I'm friends with. We spent about a month in Joshua Tree (we weren't there for the sport climbing). You've got it wrong though. What actually happened is that we were at a campfire one night with a bunch of old trad climbers that didn't know we were primarily sport climbers. We did listen to them dump on sport climbers all night long, that is correct. But we weren't humiliated. We thought it was kinda funny because we had just spent the day climbing more difficult trad routes than they did. As we did the next day, and the next day, and the next day. My friend even had to finish a route for one of them to get his gear down. I don't think they ever found out we were sport climbers and we didn't make a fuss about it because we had already heard it all before. We just had a good laugh. True story. Now can I put my weiner away? I don't think I asked about Joshua Tree...

I imagine Joshua Tree came up because you were at Boat Rock, an excellent place to hone your skills for that sort of trad climbing. I'm sorry if anyone has retro bolted your routes. Punk Wave is still one of my all time favorites. I climbed it with the guy we're talking about - it was Valentine's day and it was so beautiful. He wanted to bolt it, but I wouldn't let him and I climbed it in perfect style right in his face.

Tar Baby Blues had a bolt added about twenty feet up right at the crux. Also during the walk through a climber on a route said it would go clean and I am sure it did when we were climbing here. I am tired of talking to posers and newbies. Where are Alabama's Old Guard like James Dobbs, Curt Merchant, and Mark Cole, are they on vacation or just lying low?

....I'm starting to see what you're saying Wes.

Claims with no evidence to back them up........

But you're a loser and I'm a newbie so what we think doesn't matter anyway. Till all the old dudes die off I guess.

Sorry, that's what Jason told me. You two need to get your story straight and Jason needs to answer my question first. Did my money go to buying bolts that got used to retro my climbs at Yellow Bluff Simple question.

OK, my bad, you're probably right.

zekem wrote: I'd be more than willing to assist in any way in my area. Seems that the ETCC is mostly responsible for the obed area. Maybe I should just stick to them instead of the SCC which appears to be more concerned with the Chatt/Atl area. I just took some concern into the SCC as I felt it was something j could maybe get behind and also something that may be a resource to open some private crags in my area (cookeville, TN). Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

To interject off topic...
The ETCC is far and above more cliquish and less transparent than the SCC. It is run by a small group of individuals who treat it like it is their personal club and in no way represents the actual climbers in east Tennessee.

I am making a claim, show me your evidence.

I didn't know that, Leftwich.

I'll be looking into that as well. Are there any organizations around here that represent the people?

Wow, when the shoe is on the other foot, the faceless masses seam to change the topic mighty quick. Watch out, even if your old guard is out for the count, I plan to hang in there like Fred Beckey.