Single Rope for Alpine Climbing/Nano Reviews?
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Hello, |
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This is definitely a personal risk/reward preference but I tend to shy away from thinner ropes in the alpine. Loose rock is common so I want the extra sheath just in case I knock off a rock and it hits the rope. For me, it's worth the extra pound or two to climb on a 9.8 than a 9.0. |
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Thanks for the input, Charles. |
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i think my alpine rope is a 9.4... also use doubles on occasion. Depedns on the objective. i like just having a single most of the time. |
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Thanks guys. I have two dragonflys that I use on occasion but generally prefer a single line for the objectives I have in mind. More interested in specific reviews of thin single lines for use in alpine settings. All input is appreciated though! Keep the suggestions coming. |
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Mammut Serenity, 8.7 @70m. Durable (for size) and light. It's been my work horse for alpine climbs |
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I have the nano. I don't have a boatload of use on it, but like it ice climbing and multipitch. Love the weight |
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I'm kinda looking for a similar line..around a 9.2 or so. I have always used Mammut, but damn the Serenity is $$$ |
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I'm using the mammut serenity 8.7 (70meter) for all of my alpine climbs. I just climbed Red Dihedral last weekend and am going to do Dark Star next weekend. It works great, rope drag is minimized which is important on wandering routes. I'm not really expecting to fall on alpine routes anyway but if I did it would probably be a bit unnerving because the rope stretch will be so long. I also use it for long Yosemite climbs 5.10 and below where I know I'm not going to fall (much) and I'd rather have a lightweight rope. I don't see any reason for doubles since most alpine climbs are walk offs with minimal rappels so 2 ropes seems overkill unless retreating is possible. The sheath is still intact and I'm happy with my purchase. It sure is worth the $ to me just to have less weight in my pack on the approaches. You won't remember the cost of the rope but you sure will remember how much weight is on your shoulders by the end of the trip. |
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Depending on the objective I'm often just using my 8.1 Beal Iceline 70m, folded in half used as a twin. This gives me about 35m of rope between my partner and I for short spurts of technical climbing when we want to pitch it out, but more often for just simulclimbing at that length (or shorter). Still get a 35m rap, less weight, and works for the type of climbing we are interested in. Used that method on the Cirque traverse in the Winds this weekend. |
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The Nano in its 9.2 is one of the best ropes ever made. |
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I haven't pulled the trigger yet on one but the 9mm Catalyst from Trango seems to get good reviews. Plus its triple certified (single, half, twin) so you've got alot of options with it. I think that will be my next skinny alpine rope. |
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Just finished climbing a bunch of stuff in the Cascades and RMNP with Beal's Opera, an 8.5mm single. No complaints yet. Had to bail off something in the Cascades last year and core shotted a brand new Nano. No complaints with the one from the previous year of climbing though. |
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Andrew Mayer wrote:I haven't pulled the trigger yet on one but the 9mm Catalyst from Trango seems to get good reviews. Plus its triple certified (single, half, twin) so you've got alot of options with it. I think that will be my next skinny alpine rope.+1 for the Catalyst. Great rope. I've also used the Nano in the alpine and thought it was great and seemed to hold up well. |
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If yr on a climb where a fall is a "i wont fall but just in case" situation a single mammut genesis has more sheath material than a mammut serenity .... And itll hold a fall just fine |
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Some great responses coming through, thanks guys! I'm not hearing any strong arguments for the Nano vs. other ropes in that size range but the price differential is quite high. |
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Greenben, |
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john strand wrote:I'm kinda looking for a similar line..around a 9.2 or so. I have always used Mammut, but damn the Serenity is $$$Hey John (and others), I picked up a Mammut 9.2 70m for 150$ pretty recently. I thought it was a great deal, and I definitely like the rope. I assume it will be onsale again at some point. ( backcountry.com/mammut-reve…) |
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I use the Marathon Half 8.8. Got it on sale from CampSaver for roughly $120 this spring. No regrets so far. Last use was on the Snake Dike - much nicer carrying that than a 10.2 for the approach. |
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I have a brand new 80 meter Nano 9.2 for sale in B&S if anyone is interested |
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bearbreeder wrote:If yr on a climb where a fall is a "i wont fall but just in case" situation a single mammut genesis has more sheath material than a mammut serenity .... And itll hold a fall just fine Mammut themselves say that a single genesis is more durable abrasion wise than a serenity .... And as a bonus u can use em as doubles in a set This is of course against "must be absolutely safe no exceptions" practice as youll be leading on a single half rope ... ;)+100 I used to have a set of Mammut Genesis half ropes (60 m, dry), and I loved using just one of them as an alpine "single" rope. So much lighter and less bulky than a real* single rope, but still thick enough to provide confidence and durability. I even used to use that system sometimes on long non-alpine routes where I wanted to go light. A climbing partner of mine once took a 40 footer (on overhanging rock too, not just some slab slide) while using just a "single" Genesis; no issues whatsoever. I have total faith in that rope.
Nowadays I have a 9.2 Edelweiss Performance that I'm pretty happy with. I also recently got a 7.9 twin rope, mainly for tagline use on non-alpine long routes. I have a vague idea that I may use it in the future as a super-sketch "single" for easy alpine applications...I'll see about that... |