Leeper's Z Corner
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.8 from 82 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Ed Leeper and FDC Willard |
Page Views: | 3,952 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Jon Nelson on May 22, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
In the middle of the crag, climb up the clean right-facing flaring corner, sort of like Battered Sandwich, but facing the other way and a little easier. Initially, a jam crack in a corner, but higher becomes more of a chimney. I've seen some climb the chimney part with their back to the slab, fighting for every inch. It seems faster and easier to do with one's feet on the slab, ones back or hands against the top. The route seems to leave quite an impression on folks, either they love it or they hate it (this might reflect on which side they had their feet).
On a hot day, you might find this one of the coolest routes in the district.
One can do a variation that traverses out onto the slab before the chimneying section, clipping three bolts to a lower anchor. Or, one can do the extended finish, going to the top (5.8), though this might presently be difficult to protect except at the start.
Shares the same start as On the Rebound.
There is a walk-up anchor at the top, about 25' above the old anchor for this route. You can TR from here, doing the fun face moves to the top, or re-direct the rope at the lower anchor. Very easy access.
Protection
Full range of gear, including wide pieces. But one may get by with just pieces to 3", with several in the 2-3" range.
Bolted anchor at the top. If you're doing it with a 60m, don't forget to tie knots in the end of your rope.
History
Who knows who pounded that pin in, but I suppose they probably continued up to the top.
19 Comments