Best Offwidth Climbs
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Here's three offwidths my buddy put up last year at reasonable grades in vermont: |
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Black Crack at Cathedral is good too. I got my ass handed to me following it last fall. |
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mtnmandan wrote:Hey all, I'll be up in North Conway with a boat load of wide gear the next couple of weeks. Hit me up if you want to grovel up some off widths, I need some practice too. Also happy to have a partner for any other widths as well. Cheers, DanIf you really want to flail away-LeafSpring_ at cathedral should work you good Fear of Ejection/ The Flare out at Bartlett Haystack is nice (wink) 5" in a corner and at bear Slab (Kanc) mad Dog Drummonds 12A is vicious (can be tr'd) |
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Anyone ever do Repentance in summer? |
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Moss cliff in the Adirondacka park. |
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Best Off-Width Training Ground - Vedauwoo, WY - Hands down, some of the highest quality raw appendage climbing out there. |
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True, except if you live in NE like the OP |
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Any offwidths to be had in the waterville valley area? I've been wanting to explore those crags and definitely could use another reason to. |
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I'd also like to open this thread up for chimneys, squeeze chimneys, and anything so ridiculously sandbagged that it has caused tears. |
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M Sprague wrote:Eli, at Greens there is Jolly Green Giant, an off to chimney to hands and fingers, though you don't really climb it as an offwidth. Nearby is Brer Rabbit which, starts out with a little chimneying then becomes a cool face up to corner and bear hugging. On the tier above is the second pitch Happy Camper with its beautiful 5.10 wide hand crack. (I just laybacked it, but if you have big hands you can jam it without stacks) The first pitch is a chimney Squeeze Box. Still at Greens, but over at the main cliff the second pitch of Stewart's Crack has a bit of wide (The first pitch is a great handcrack in a corner. Closer to home, have you done Lee's wide cracks over at Triple Corners?Just bought a #6 and a #3 Big Bro, Walking the Devil is definitely going to be a project for me. Also Mark; shoot me a PM I have a question regarding a pitch I'd like to potentially bolt (or put anchors on as it could probably go on gear) but I'm unsure about a couple of things. |
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Having trouble posting complete post with more than 1 link. I'll try again later with the Greens stuff, Eli. Looks like you got most of it though. |
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Eli Buzzell wrote:I'd also like to open this thread up for chimneys, squeeze chimneys, and anything so ridiculously sandbagged that it has caused tears.Crack between Worlds at cathedral..though now done (every 10 years) as an undercling,,you really need to experience the suffering as a squeeze..i believe that Kurt spent 6 days on the f/a Windjammer on the kanc has a nice flaring 11B slot/thing with not so good gear. |
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Chimneys? Try White Zombie (5.12d) at Rumney. (Personally, I would pay anything NOT to have to get on this climbor any chimney for that matter.) |
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The diagonal on cathedral |
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john strand wrote: Crack between Worlds at cathedral..though now done (every 10 years) as an undercling,,you really need to experience the suffering as a squeeze..i believe that Kurt spent 6 days on the f/a Windjammer on the kanc has a nice flaring 11B slot/thing with not so good gear.Nah Windjammer is WAY over hyped. Crap loose pitch to a bolted V slot (good, but full of spiders and dirty whenI did it) to a crap loose pitch. Three stars? Only if you did the FA and wrote the guidebook (sorry Ed). One star from me. Bulletproof at Farley...haven't sent it but have thrashed around on it. Hard offwidth start (13) tp great 11+ finish. |
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Damn..I didn't pull anything off, except a pin ! Guess when it's done every 20 years it gets rough. |
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Where at Cathedral is Crack Between Worlds? I can't find it on here. |
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Just right of Mordor Wall ..the hideous right leaning, flake/bombay. affair. |